A nutrient-dense botanical extract that functions as a high-performance emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It is distinguished by an exceptionally high concentration of squalane and essential fatty acids, making it a premier choice for barrier restoration and lipid replenishment in dry or sensitized skin.
- INCI Name:
- Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
- Scientific Name:
- Amaranthus caudatus L. seed extract
- Common Aliases:
- Amaranth Seed Extract, Love-Lies-Bleeding Extract, Velvet Flower Extract
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Plant-derived (pseudo-cereal seeds) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 2 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Dermatological, Nutritional |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (Lipophilic) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Replenishes the skin’s lipid barrier to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Provides a natural source of Squalane, which mimics human sebum for immediate absorption.
- Calms inflammatory responses in reactive or compromised skin types.
- Improves skin elasticity and smoothness through intensive emolliency.
Potential Risks:
- Low risk of comedogenicity in acne-prone individuals if used in high concentrations.
- Potential for oxidation if the formula lacks adequate stabilizers.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Derived from the seeds of the amaranth plant, this extract is uniquely rich in Squalane, often comprising 5% to 8% of its total lipid profile. Unlike most vegetable oils, which rely on triglycerides, the high hydrocarbon content allows this extract to integrate seamlessly into the intercellular cement of the stratum corneum. By mimicking the skin’s natural moisturizing factors (NMF), it reinforces the structural integrity of the skin barrier, effectively sealing in moisture and preventing environmental irritants from penetrating the deeper epidermal layers.
Fatty acid composition plays a significant role in the extract’s efficacy. It contains high levels of Linoleic Acid and Oleic Acid, which assist in maintaining fluidity within the cell membranes. Palmitic Acid further contributes to the protective film-forming properties of the extract. These lipids work in tandem to soften the skin’s texture and alleviate the tightness associated with xerosis and dermatitis.
Antioxidant protection is another key biological function. The extract contains significant amounts of Tocopherol (Vitamin E), which scavenges free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution. This prevents lipid peroxidation—a process where healthy skin fats are damaged—thereby maintaining the long-term health of the skin matrix. Furthermore, recent research suggests that amaranth peptides may offer anti-inflammatory benefits, potentially downregulating pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin.
Broader Applications & Origins
Amaranth has been cultivated for over 8,000 years, serving as a staple “superfood” for Aztec and Incan civilizations. In modern cosmetic chemistry, the seed extract is preferred over the leaf extract due to the higher concentration of bioactive lipids. While traditionally used in anti-aging creams, its use has expanded into hair care formulations. In shampoos and conditioners, it binds to the hair shaft to increase diameter and improve manageability, providing a “silicone-like” slip without the risk of buildup or environmental persistence.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Combine with Niacinamide to enhance ceramide synthesis alongside lipid replenishment.
- Pairs effectively with Sodium Hyaluronate to provide both humectant and occlusive hydration.
- Works well with Ceramide Np for comprehensive skin barrier reconstruction.
Conflicts:
- No known contraindications; universally compatible with most active ingredients, including retinoids and hydroxy acids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological assessments consistently categorize Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract as safe for topical use in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10%. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel acknowledges the safety of amaranth-derived ingredients, noting a lack of sensitization or irritation in clinical patch tests. Because the extract is naturally gluten-free, it is considered a safe alternative for individuals with celiac disease or topical gluten sensitivities. Research published in peer-reviewed journals confirms its role in accelerating skin recovery after barrier disruption.
Is Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract good for acne-prone skin?
While it has a low comedogenic rating, this extract is an oil-based lipid. It is highly beneficial for dehydrated-oily skin, but individuals with very active cystic acne should monitor for potential clogging if it is the primary ingredient in a heavy facial oil.
How does it differ from synthetic squalane?
While synthetic or olive-derived Squalane is a purified single molecule, this extract provides a complex matrix of squalane, fatty acids, and Tocopherol. This “whole-plant” profile offers broader antioxidant protection than purified squalane alone.
Can this extract replace a moisturizer?
It functions primarily as an emollient and occlusive. For best results, it should be used over a humectant-based serum containing Glycerin or hyaluronic acid to ensure both water-binding and moisture-sealing functions are addressed.