Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a high-performance, plant-derived polymeric ester designed to function as a vegan alternative to lanolin. This high-viscosity emollient excels at restoring the skin barrier and providing a long-lasting, high-gloss finish without the risk of sensitization.
- INCI Name:
- Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Fatty acids, C18-unsaturated, dimers, polymers with 1-docosanol, hydrogenated C18-unsaturated fatty acid dimers, isooctadecanol, and soya hydroxysteroids
- Common Aliases:
- Lusplan DD-DA7, Plandool-G, Vegetable-derived dimer dilinoleate ester
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Vegetable-derived (Soybean, Rapeseed) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Color Cosmetics (Lipsticks), Haircare |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (Lipophilic) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Provides intense occlusive protection to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Delivers a high refractive index, resulting in a superior gloss and shine in lip and hair products.
- Offers a rich, “cushioning” skin feel similar to animal-derived lanolin but without the odor or sticky residue.
- Integrates plant sterols that mimic the skin’s natural lipid structure for enhanced barrier restoration.
Potential Risks:
- The high viscosity may feel overly heavy for individuals with extremely oily or acne-prone skin types.
- Product formulations containing high concentrations may require thorough cleansing to remove.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Structurally, this ingredient is a complex ester formed from dimerized Linoleic Acid and a combination of alcohols, including Behenyl Alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and phytosterols. Its polymeric nature gives it a high molecular weight, which ensures it remains on the skin’s surface rather than penetrating deeply into the pores. This film-forming capability makes it one of the most effective plant-based occlusives currently available in cosmetic chemistry.
The phytosteryl component is particularly significant for dermatological health. Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols that share structural similarities with Cholesterol, a critical component of the human stratum corneum. By incorporating these sterols into a stable ester matrix, the ingredient supports the intercellular lipid bilayer, helping to “patch” gaps in a compromised skin barrier. This mechanism is highly effective for treating xerosis (dry skin) and recovery after chemical peels or laser treatments.
Rheological properties differentiate this ester from simple vegetable oils. It exhibits high tackiness and adhesion, which is why it is a staple in long-wear lipsticks and barrier creams. Formulations utilizing this ingredient benefit from increased stability and a smoother application profile. It can also disperse pigments effectively, preventing “bleeding” or feathering in color cosmetics.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Works optimally when paired with Ceramide Np and Cholesterol to create a complete bio-mimetic barrier repair system.
- Combines well with Squalane to adjust the spreadability and reduce the heavy initial feel of rich balms.
- Enhances the stability of oil-soluble antioxidants like Tocopherol in anhydrous (waterless) formulas.
Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts; however, it may impede the penetration of water-soluble actives if applied as a thick layer before serums.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated dimer dilinoleate esters in multiple assessments, including draft reports as recently as 2025. Clinical data from Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) indicates that this specific ingredient is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at 100% concentration. Because of its large molecular size and lack of volatile components, it is considered safe for sensitive skin and use around the delicate eye and lip areas. Regulatory bodies in the EU (CosIng) and Australia (NICNAS) recognize it as a safe cosmetic polymer with low environmental toxicity.
Is this ingredient vegan and sustainable?
Yes. This ingredient is 100% plant-derived, typically sourced from renewable vegetable oils like soybean and rapeseed. It serves as a direct vegan replacement for lanolin, which is derived from sheep’s wool.
Will it cause breakouts or clog my pores?
Despite its rich and thick consistency, this ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 0. Its molecular structure is too large to enter the pores, meaning it sits on the surface to protect the skin without contributing to acne formation.
Why is it used in so many lip balms?
It provides an exceptional glossy shine and has high adhesive properties, ensuring the product stays on the lips longer than standard oils. It also offers immediate relief for chapped skin by creating a physical shield against wind and cold.