Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyl Adipate-2 is a high-performance, vegan emollient engineered to replicate the superior water-binding and adhesive properties of lanolin. It functions as a substantive skin conditioner that provides an exceptionally rich skin feel and long-lasting barrier protection in both leave-on and color cosmetic formulas.
- INCI Name:
- Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyl Adipate-2
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Diglyceryl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Hydroxystearate/Isostearate/Stearate
- Common Aliases:
- Vegan Lanolin, Softisan 649
| Category: | Softeners, Moisturizers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (Vegetable-derived fatty acids) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Skin Care, Lip Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Exceptional water-binding capacity (binds up to 200% of its weight).
- Imparts a glossy, substantive film that resists being easily washed off.
- Serves as a 100% plant-derived alternative to animal-sourced lanolin.
- Enhances the stability and spreadability of pigment-rich formulations.
Potential Risks:
- May feel slightly tacky or heavy in high concentrations.
- Potential for minor occlusion-related breakouts in extremely acne-prone skin, though rare.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Complex esters of diglycerin and a blend of fatty acids including Stearic Acid and Isostearic Acid create a molecular structure designed for maximum skin affinity. This large molecule remains primarily on the surface of the stratum corneum, where it integrates with the natural lipid matrix. By mimicking the amphiphilic nature of human skin lipids, it effectively bridges the gap between water and oil phases in a formulation, leading to enhanced skin softness and elasticity.Adhesion is a primary functional trait of this ingredient, making it indispensable for lip care products. Unlike lighter oils such as Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, this polymer forms a robust, semi-occlusive layer that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) over extended periods. Clinical evaluations highlight its ability to remain effective in “wear-off” scenarios, providing continuous hydration even after mechanical stress on the skin.Texture modulation occurs when this ingredient is incorporated into emulsions or anhydrous balms. It introduces a “cushioning” effect, reducing the friction of application and providing a creamy, luxury skin feel. In color cosmetics, its high refractive index contributes to a visible gloss, while its polarity aids in the uniform dispersion of mineral pigments like iron oxides or titanium dioxide.
Broader Applications & Origins
Industrial production involves the esterification of vegetable-derived Glycerin and organic acids. This process results in a viscous, yellowish paste that is chemically stable and resistant to oxidation. Because it lacks the pesticide residues and odors often associated with crude lanolin, it is preferred in “clean” and vegan-certified formulations.Applications extend beyond simple moisturization into medical-grade salves and diaper creams. Its ability to shield skin from external irritants without being fully occlusive—unlike heavy Petrolatum—allows the skin to “breathe” while repairing. Furthermore, it is often paired with antioxidants like Tocopherol to maintain formula integrity and protect the skin from oxidative stress during wear.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Humectants: Works exceptionally well when applied over Glycerin or sodium hyaluronate to lock in moisture.
- Barrier Lipids: Complements ceramides and Stearic Acid to reinforce the skin’s protective mantle.
- Occlusives: Can be used alongside Petrolatum to improve the spreadability and sensory profile of heavy ointments.
Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts exist; however, use with caution in ultra-light, oil-free routines designed for oily or congested skin types.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological safety assessments by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel have concluded that this ingredient is safe for use in cosmetics. Extensive testing indicates that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating to human skin, even at 100% concentration. Due to its high molecular weight, systemic absorption through the skin is negligible. It is considered an ideal choice for sensitive skin types and individuals who experience allergic reactions to traditional lanolin alcohols.
Is Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyl Adipate-2 vegan?
Yes. This ingredient is 100% synthetic and vegetable-derived, making it a cruelty-free and vegan-friendly alternative to lanolin, which is harvested from sheep’s wool.
Will this ingredient clog my pores?
While it has a rich and thick consistency, its comedogenic rating is very low (0-1). It is generally considered non-comedogenic and is unlikely to cause acne in most users, though those with very oily skin may find it too heavy.
How does it differ from standard glycerin?
While Glycerin is a humectant that pulls water into the skin, this ingredient is an emollient and occlusive that prevents water from leaving the skin. They are often used together for a comprehensive hydration strategy.