Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 serves as a high-performance, vegan emollient engineered to mimic the water-binding capacity and texture of lanolin. It functions as a substantive skin conditioner that prevents moisture loss while enhancing the spreadability of creams and lip care products.
- INCI Name:
- Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Diglyceryl adipate partially esterified with a mixture of fatty acids (caprylic, capric, stearic, isostearic, and hydroxystearic acids).
- Common Aliases:
- Softisan 649, Vegan Lanolin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 Ester.
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (derived from plant-based fatty acids) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-2 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Color Cosmetics, Lip Care, Hair Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits:
- Provides intense, long-lasting moisturization by trapping water in the stratum corneum.
- Offers exceptional skin adhesion and film-forming properties, making it ideal for barrier protection.
- Acts as a direct, ethical alternative to animal-derived lanolin without the associated odor or potential allergens.
- Enhances the gloss and “payoff” in decorative cosmetics like lipsticks and glosses.
- Potential Risks:
- May feel heavy or slightly tacky if used at excessively high concentrations in facial moisturizers.
- Possesses low comedogenic potential, which may be a consideration for extremely acne-prone individuals.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Acting as a multi-functional emollient, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a semi-solid paste characterized by its high viscosity and polarity. It is synthesized by reacting diglycerin with adipic acid and a blend of fatty acids, including Stearic Acid and Isostearic Acid. This unique chemical structure allows the ingredient to absorb and hold up to 200% of its own weight in water. By forming a breathable, occlusive film on the skin, it significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and maintains the flexibility of the skin barrier.The molecular weight and pasty consistency of this ester contribute to superior skin adhesion compared to liquid oils like Caprylic/capric Triglyceride. When applied, it fills the intercellular spaces between corneocytes, smoothing the skin surface and providing an immediate softening effect. Unlike Petrolatum, which is purely occlusive, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 provides a more sophisticated sensory profile that balances tackiness with smoothness.
Broader Applications & Origins
Manufacturers frequently select this ingredient for lip care formulations because it remains on the lips for extended periods, resisting easy removal by saliva or friction. In emulsions, it serves as a secondary stabilizer, improving the overall consistency and preventing phase separation over time. Its origin is primarily synthetic, though the precursor fatty acids are often derived from vegetable oils, making it a staple in “clean” and “vegan” product lines that seek to avoid traditional lanolin.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Humectants: Works exceptionally well when layered over Glycerin or hyaluronic acid to seal in moisture.
- Natural Oils: Combines with Ricinus Communis Seed Oil in lip products to improve shine and durability.
- Antioxidants: Often paired with Tocopherol to protect the lipid components of a formula from oxidation.
- Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts; compatible with most active and functional ingredients.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical testing demonstrates that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at high concentrations. Because it is chemically stable and lacks the protein impurities sometimes found in natural lanolin, it presents a significantly lower risk of allergic contact dermatitis. Dermatological data suggests it is well-tolerated by those with sensitive or compromised skin barriers.
Is Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 the same as lanolin?
No, it is a synthetic alternative. While it shares similar physical properties—such as a pasty texture and high water-binding capacity—it is vegan-friendly and lacks the specific sheep-derived alcohols that can cause sensitivity in some users.
Will this ingredient clog my pores?
It has a very low comedogenic rating (0-2). While it is generally considered safe for most skin types, those with very oily or acne-prone skin should monitor how “rich” a formula feels, as its occlusive nature may be too heavy for some.
Why is it used in lipsticks?
This ingredient provides “stick” and “cushion,” helping the lipstick stay on the lips while providing a glossy finish. It also prevents the delicate skin on the lips from drying out under pigment-heavy formulas.