Derived from the rapeseed plant, this botanical extract serves as a potent emollient and skin-conditioning agent. Its high concentration of essential fatty acids and phytosterols works to reinforce the skin barrier and neutralize oxidative stress.
- INCI Name:
- Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Extract
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Brassica Campestris L. Extract
- Common Aliases:
- Rapeseed Extract, Field Mustard Extract, Canola Extract
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Plant-based (Seeds/Flowers of Brassica campestris) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 2 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Dermatological, Nutritional |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (Lipophilic) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Soothing/Calming | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Restores the lipid bilayer to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Delivers high levels of Tocopherol (Vitamin E) for environmental protection.
- Calms reactive skin through a complex profile of anti-inflammatory phytosterols.
- Potential Risks:
- Low risk of contact dermatitis in individuals with specific botanical allergies.
- Moderate comedogenicity may affect those with very oily or cystic acne-prone skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Lipid replenishment is the cornerstone of this extract’s efficacy. It contains a significant ratio of unsaturated fatty acids, specifically Oleic Acid and Linoleic Acid, which integrate into the stratum corneum. These lipids fill the gaps between corneocytes, smoothing the skin surface and improving overall flexibility. Beyond simple moisturization, Palmitic Acid and Stearic Acid provide a protective occlusive film that shields the skin from external irritants.
The presence of phytosterols like brassicasterol and campesterol offers biological advantages similar to cholesterol, a natural component of the skin’s moisture barrier. These compounds modulate the inflammatory response, making the extract particularly effective for compromised or post-procedure skin. By mimicking the skin’s natural sebum, the extract facilitates the transport of other lipid-soluble actives into deeper epidermal layers.
Antioxidant activity is robust due to the naturally occurring Tocopherol content. This protects cellular membranes from lipid peroxidation caused by UV exposure and pollution. Furthermore, certain phenolic compounds within the extract assist in neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), thereby slowing the visible signs of photoaging and maintaining structural protein integrity.
Broader Applications & Origins
Agricultural refining of the Brassica campestris plant has transitioned from industrial lubrication purposes to high-purity cosmetic and food-grade applications. Cold-pressing techniques ensure that the delicate fatty acids and vitamins remain bioactive during the extraction process. Modern cosmetic chemistry utilizes specific subspecies of this plant to minimize erucic acid, ensuring maximum biocompatibility for topical use.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Works exceptionally well with Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to balance oil and water content in the skin.
- Enhances the barrier-restoring properties of Ceramide Np and Cholesterol in medical-grade moisturizers.
- Pairs with Panthenol to accelerate recovery in sensitized skin.
- Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts; however, heavy application may reduce the penetration of water-based serums if applied out of order.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Brassica campestris-derived ingredients and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetic formulations at current concentrations. Because it is a food-grade botanical, it exhibits a high safety profile with a very low incidence of sensitization. Dermatological studies highlight its efficacy in treating xerosis and atopic dermatitis by significantly reducing TEWL and improving skin elasticity over 28-day trial periods.
Is Brassica Campestris Extract safe for acne-prone skin?
While it has a relatively low comedogenic rating of 2, those with extremely oily or congestion-prone skin should monitor their usage. It is generally well-tolerated but may be too occlusive for some in high concentrations.
What is the difference between this and Canola Oil?
Canola is a specific edible variety of Brassica campestris or Brassica napus bred for low erucic acid content. In cosmetics, “Extract” often refers to a more concentrated version of the plant’s beneficial phytochemicals compared to standard culinary oil.
Does it provide sun protection?
No, it is not a sunscreen. While its antioxidants help mitigate some UV-induced damage, it does not contain SPF filters and must be used alongside a dedicated sun protection product.