Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a sophisticated silicone elastomer used primarily to create a silky, velvet-like texture and a soft-focus “blurring” effect on the skin. It functions as a thickening agent and oil absorbent, providing a matte finish and improving the spreadability of cosmetic formulations. This large-molecule polymer remains on the skin’s surface, filling in fine lines and pores without penetration.
- INCI Name:
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Dimethylpolysiloxane crosslinked with vinyl group terminated dimethylpolysiloxane
- Common Aliases:
- Silicone Elastomer Powder, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
| Category: | Texture Enhancers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Color Cosmetics, Sunscreens |
| Solubility: | Oil/Silicone Dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Sebum Control: | |
| Irritation Risk: | |
| Formula Stability: |
Primary Benefits:
- Provides an exceptional “velvet” skin feel and eliminates the stickiness of other ingredients.
- Offers a soft-focus effect that optically minimizes the appearance of wrinkles and enlarged pores.
- Absorbs excess skin oils to maintain a long-lasting matte appearance.
- Functions as a non-tacky thickening agent for water-in-silicone emulsions.
Potential Risks:
- May cause “pilling” when layered over water-based products that have not fully dried.
- Possesses no inherent biological nutritive value for the skin barrier.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Spherical particles characterize the structural nature of this silicone elastomer. Unlike linear silicones like Dimethicone, this crosspolymer consists of three-dimensional networks that do not flow as easily, allowing it to provide more “body” to a formula. When applied to the skin, these microscopic spheres settle into topographical irregularities, such as fine lines and pores, scattering light in multiple directions to create an airbrushed visual effect.The physical properties of the elastomer allow it to act as a delivery vehicle for other lipophilic ingredients. Because the polymer is often pre-dispersed in a carrier fluid like Cyclopentasiloxane or Isododecane, it facilitates an elegant application process where the solvent evaporates, leaving a smooth, breathable film. This film is non-occlusive, meaning it does not interfere with skin respiration or trap heat, making it suitable even for sensitive or acne-prone skin types.Oil absorption is another mechanical function of this ingredient. The crosspolymer can sequester liquid fats within its matrix, which helps control shine throughout the day. In sunscreens, this stabilizes UV filters and reduces the heavy, greasy sensation often associated with high-SPF products.
Broader Applications & Origins
Synthetic synthesis is the only route for producing these complex silicone networks. Manufacturers utilize hydrosilylation reactions to crosslink vinyl-functionalized siloxanes with methylhydrogen siloxanes. This process results in a highly stable material that is resistant to oxidation and thermal degradation. Beyond facial skincare, the ingredient is ubiquitous in primers, liquid foundations, and “blur” creams where sensory performance is a primary objective.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Silica: Enhances oil absorption and matte duration.
- Titanium Dioxide: Improves the distribution and wear-time of mineral sunscreens.
- Cyclopentasiloxane: Commonly used as a carrier to improve spreadability.
Conflicts:
- High-density water-based serums: May cause pilling if the elastomer is applied before the serum is fully absorbed.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated this crosspolymer multiple times, most recently in their 2014 assessment of over 100 silicone crosspolymers. Their findings concluded that these ingredients are safe in the practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment. Due to its large molecular weight, the crosspolymer cannot penetrate the stratum corneum, which eliminates risks of systemic toxicity or internal irritation. Clinical patch testing consistently demonstrates that it is a non-sensitizer and non-irritant, even for individuals with reactive skin.
Is Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer comedogenic?
No. Despite its thick texture, it is a non-comedogenic ingredient. The molecule is far too large to enter the pore, and its breathable structure does not trap sebum in a way that leads to acne formation.
Why does my product pill when using this ingredient?
Pilling usually occurs because the silicone elastomer is being applied over a water-based product that has high concentrations of film-formers (like Xanthan Gum or Hyaluronic Acid) that haven’t dried. The friction of application causes the silicone to “roll” the underlying film off the skin.
Is this ingredient considered a microplastic?
Under current ECHA definitions, silicone elastomers are often categorized differently than traditional solid plastic microbeads. However, because they are synthetic polymers that do not biodegrade rapidly, they are under ongoing environmental scrutiny, though they remain fully approved for topical safety.