Gellan gum is a versatile, fermentation-derived polysaccharide that functions as a high-performance gelling agent and stabilizer. It creates elegant, crystal-clear textures and provides excellent suspension for active ingredients without leaving a tacky residue.
- INCI Name:
- Gellan Gum
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- High molecular weight deacetylated microorganism exopolysaccharide
- Common Aliases:
- E418, Kelcogel
| Category: | Thickeners |
| Source Origin: | Microbial fermentation (Sphingomonas elodea) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Food, Pharmaceuticals |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits: Creates crystal-clear gels, provides shear-thinning “liquid-to-gel” sensory effects, stabilizes emulsions, and suspends insoluble particles like pigments or encapsulated actives.
- Potential Risks: Requires precise temperature control or specific ion concentrations during manufacturing for optimal gelling.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Microbial fermentation of the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea yields this high-molecular-weight anionic polysaccharide. The polymer backbone consists of a repeating tetrasaccharide unit—specifically glucose, glucuronic acid, and rhamnose. While it does not penetrate the skin barrier due to its large molecular size, it forms a sophisticated, non-occlusive film on the stratum corneum that can help retain surface moisture.The rheological behavior of this biopolymer is its most significant cosmetic trait. It exhibits pseudoplasticity, meaning the viscosity decreases under mechanical stress (such as rubbing the product onto the face) and recovers immediately once the stress is removed. This allows for a “quick-break” sensation where a thick gel transforms into a watery fluid upon application, facilitating the even distribution of Aqua and water-soluble actives.Stability in complex formulations is another core strength. Unlike many organic thickeners, this gum is remarkably heat-stable and can maintain its structural integrity across a wide pH range. It is particularly effective at suspending heavy particles, such as shimmering micas or physical sunscreens, preventing sedimentation over time. When combined with other gums like Xanthan Gum, it can create synergistic textures that are more resilient than either ingredient used in isolation.
Broader Applications & Origins
Scientists first discovered this polysaccharide in the 1970s, isolating it from the Sphingomonas elodea bacteria found on lily pads. It eventually transitioned from the food industry, where it is used as a vegan alternative to gelatin, into high-end skincare and pharmaceutical eye drops. In medical applications, its ability to form a gel in the presence of cations (like those found in human tears) makes it an ideal vehicle for controlled-release drug delivery.
Routine Integration
- Synergies: Works optimally with humectants like Glycerin or Betaine. It often requires chelating agents such as Sodium Phytate or pH adjusters like Citric Acid to manage ion-induced gelling during production.
- Conflicts: High concentrations of divalent cations (calcium or magnesium) can cause over-gelling or “clumping” if not properly sequestered with Sodium Citrate.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated gellan gum in 2014 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration. It is non-sensitizing and non-irritating, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive or acne-prone skin. Because it is a fermentation product rather than a synthetic polymer, it is frequently utilized in “clean” and “natural” certified formulations.
Is gellan gum vegan?
Yes. Since it is produced via microbial fermentation of plant-based sugars, it is a 100% vegan-friendly alternative to animal-derived gelling agents like gelatin.
Does it cause pilling under makeup?
Generally, no. Because it is effective at very low concentrations, it creates a much thinner and more flexible film than traditional carbomers or high-dose cellulose gums, reducing the likelihood of “rolling” or pilling when layered.
Is it better than xanthan gum?
It is not necessarily better, but it serves a different purpose. While Xanthan Gum provides excellent slip and lubrication, gellan gum is superior for creating clear, standing gels and suspending particles without a “slimy” feel.