Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate is a versatile film-forming humectant that provides long-lasting hydration and skin-soothing properties. It functions as a texture enhancer by reducing the tackiness often associated with high concentrations of polyols while reinforcing the skin’s moisture barrier.
- INCI Name:
- Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Hydrogenated Corn Syrup; Sorbitol/Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
- Common Aliases:
- HSH, Polyglucitol
| Category: | Moisturizers |
| Source Origin: | Plant-based (typically derived from corn, wheat, or potato starch) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care, Oral Care, Food |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits: Provides sustained cutaneous hydration, forms a protective non-sticky film on the skin surface, and stabilizes formulas against moisture loss (anti-syneresis).
- Potential Risks: Extremely low risk of irritation; generally considered safe for all skin types including sensitive or reactive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
As a mixture of several sugar alcohols, including Sorbitol, maltitol, and longer-chain hydrogenated saccharides, this ingredient operates primarily as a humectant. It possesses a high hydroxyl group density, allowing it to form hydrogen bonds with Aqua molecules. This mechanism effectively traps water within the stratum corneum, preventing evaporative loss and maintaining plasticity in the skin’s outermost layers.
The molecular structure of these hydrogenated polysaccharides provides superior film-forming capabilities compared to simple sugars. Once applied, it creates a smooth, permeable barrier that protects the skin from environmental stressors without the occlusive “heavy” feel of waxes or oils. In complex formulations, it serves as a cryoprotectant and stabilizer, ensuring that emulsions remain consistent across various temperature fluctuations.
Texture modulation is a significant secondary function. Formulators frequently utilize this syrup to mitigate the unpleasant “tackiness” or “stringiness” often caused by high levels of Glycerin. By altering the rheological properties of the aqueous phase, it imparts a velvet-like skin feel and improves the spreadability of serums and creams.
Broader Applications & Origins
The manufacturing process begins with the partial enzymatic hydrolysis of corn, wheat, or potato starch, which breaks down complex carbohydrates into shorter glucose chains. These chains then undergo catalytic hydrogenation, converting the reactive aldehyde groups into stable alcohol groups. This chemical transformation is crucial because it results in a non-reducing sugar mixture that is highly resistant to microbial fermentation and browning (Maillard reaction) within the cosmetic bottle.
Beyond skincare, this ingredient is a staple in oral care products such as toothpastes and mouthwashes. Its non-cariogenic nature means it does not promote tooth decay, while its humectant properties prevent the paste from drying out at the tube orifice. In the food industry, it is recognized as a sugar substitute, highlighting its high biocompatibility and safety profile.
Routine Integration
- Synergies: Pairs exceptionally well with other polyols like Xylitol for enhanced barrier repair, or with Panthenol and Allantoin for intensive soothing treatments.
- Conflicts: No known biochemical conflicts; it is compatible with a wide range of surfactants, actives, and preservatives.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical data indicates it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at high concentrations. Because it is chemically inert and does not react with UV radiation or oxidative species, it is frequently included in post-procedure skincare and formulations designed for compromised skin barriers. European regulatory bodies (CosIng) list no restrictive concentrations, further affirming its status as a foundational moisturizing agent.
Is Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate the same as corn syrup?
No. While often derived from corn, it undergoes a hydrogenation process that converts the sugars into sugar alcohols (polyols). This makes the ingredient more stable, less sticky, and prevents it from being easily broken down by bacteria on the skin surface.
Can this ingredient cause breakouts?
This substance is non-comedogenic and has a rating of 0 on the comedogenic scale. It is water-soluble and does not clog pores, making it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types that require hydration without oiliness.
Is it safe for use around the eyes?
Yes, due to its low irritation potential and soothing properties, it is commonly used in eye creams and gels to hydrate the delicate periorbital area without causing stinging or redness.