A bio-fermented polysaccharide derivative that acts as a sophisticated texture enhancer and film-forming humectant. It provides a unique, silky skin feel while stabilizing complex formulations without the tackiness common in traditional natural gums.
- INCI Name:
- Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Partially hydrolyzed β-1,3-glucan with β-1,6-glycosidic branches
- Common Aliases:
- Hydrolyzed Scleroglucan, Fungal-derived Polysaccharide
| Category: | Texture Enhancers |
| Source Origin: | Microbial fermentation (Sclerotium rolfissii) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, personal care, pharmaceuticals |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects:
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Imparts a smooth, velvet-like sensory profile to serums and creams.
- Reduces the “soaping effect” often seen in emulsions.
- Forms a breathable, non-occlusive film that limits transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Enhances the stability of formulas containing high electrolyte concentrations.
Potential Risks:
- None identified for general topical use; extremely low sensitization potential.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile:
Produced through the enzymatic hydrolysis of sclerotium gum, this ingredient consists of shorter-chain glucose polymers compared to its parent molecule. This structural modification results in a lower molecular weight, which significantly alters its rheological behavior. While standard gums can create “stringy” or sticky textures, the hydrolyzed version maintains a fluid consistency that breaks quickly upon skin contact, facilitating a luxurious application experience.The polysaccharide backbone functions as a humectant by forming hydrogen bonds with Aqua, effectively trapping moisture at the stratum corneum surface. Because it is a branched beta-glucan, it also exhibits mild soothing properties. Research into fungal polysaccharides suggests these structures may support the skin’s natural barrier by creating a protective physical matrix that does not interfere with cellular respiration.Formulators frequently select this ingredient over Xanthan Gum when seeking superior clarity and a more refined “slip.” It remains stable across a wide pH range (typically 3.0 to 12.0) and resists degradation in the presence of salts, making it an ideal stabilizer for products containing Ascorbic Acid or alpha hydroxy acids.
Broader Applications & Origins:
The raw material originates from the fermentation of the fungus Sclerotium rolfissii. Beyond skincare, this biopolymer finds use in hair care as a film-former to improve combability and provide heat protection. Its ability to suspend pigments without increasing viscosity significantly makes it a staple in high-end liquid foundations and tinted moisturizers.
Routine Integration:
Synergies:
- Glycerin: Works in tandem to provide long-lasting hydration without stickiness.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Enhances the film-forming properties for a more robust moisture barrier.
- Betaine: Complements the silky finish and boosts the osmotic protection of the skin cells.
Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts; universally compatible with most active ingredients.
Clinical Consensus & Safety:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated sclerotium gum and its hydrolyzed derivatives, concluding they are safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical testing demonstrates that even at high concentrations, the ingredient is non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Because it is a microbial fermentation product, it is often favored in “clean” or vegan-friendly formulations as a high-performance alternative to synthetic carbomers.
Is Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum a “natural” ingredient?
It is considered a naturally derived ingredient, as it is produced via the bio-fermentation of non-GMO fungi and subsequently refined through enzymatic processes rather than harsh synthetic chemical synthesis.
Does this ingredient help with acne?
While not an anti-acne active, it is non-comedogenic (rating of 0). It provides oil-free hydration, making it an excellent choice for stabilizing lightweight gels intended for oily or blemish-prone skin.
How does it differ from regular Sclerotium Gum?
Hydrolysis breaks the large gum molecules into smaller fragments. This reduces the thickening power but significantly improves the “playtime” and sensory elegance of the product, ensuring it feels light rather than heavy or tacky.