A multifunctional ethoxylated lipid that stabilizes cosmetic emulsions while replenishing the skin’s moisture barrier. By mimicking natural sterols found in the human epidermis, this plant-derived additive improves texture and prevents trans-epidermal water loss.
- INCI Name:
- PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyethylene Glycol (5) Rapeseed Sterol
- Common Aliases:
- Ethoxylated Rapeseed Sterols, Polyoxyethylene (5) Rapeseed Sterol
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Plant-Derived (Rapeseed) and Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Dermatological Skincare, High-End Cosmetics |
| Solubility: | Oil-Dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects:
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Reinforces the lipid bilayer to prevent dehydration.
- Softens the skin surface through biomimetic emollience.
- Ensures smooth application and consistency in creams.
- Mimics Cholesterol to support a healthy skin barrier.
Potential Risks:
- Trace impurities of 1,4-dioxane if not properly purified (standard for all PEGs).
- Potential for mild sensitivity in extremely compromised skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile:
Structural integrity in the skin barrier depends heavily on lipids like Cholesterol and plant-based sterols. This specific ethoxylated rapeseed derivative mimics the skin’s natural architecture to reinforce the lipid matrix. When applied topically, the molecule situates itself within the stratum corneum, helping to lock in Glycerin and hydration.
Manufacturers utilize the low HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) of this substance to create stable water-in-oil emulsions or to assist in the dispersion of active ingredients. Unlike traditional harsh surfactants, this ingredient functions as a mild “softener” that integrates into the skin’s own oils. The short-chain PEG (polyethylene glycol) component provides just enough hydrophilicity to make the otherwise waxy sterols easy to work with in complex formulas.
Topical application results in a perceivable smoothing effect. Because it acts as an emollient, it fills the microscopic gaps between skin cells. This action makes it a frequent choice for products targeting dry, mature, or sensitized skin where the natural lipid barrier has been depleted by age or environmental stressors.
Broader Applications & Origins:
Extraction typically begins with Canola Oil or rapeseed oil, which is naturally rich in phytosterols like brassicasterol and sitosterol. These natural lipids undergo a chemical process called ethoxylation, where five units of ethylene oxide are added to the sterol backbone. This modification transforms a purely oil-soluble lipid into a versatile, surface-active agent that bridges the gap between water and oil phases in a cream or lotion.
Beyond facial skincare, this ingredient appears in premium haircare formulations. It aids in smoothing the hair cuticle and provides antistatic properties without the heavy buildup associated with some silicones. Its plant-derived origin makes it an attractive alternative to animal-derived sterols in vegan-friendly cosmetic lines.
Routine Integration:
Synergies:
- Combines exceptionally well with Ceramide Np for maximum barrier restoration.
- Works efficiently alongside Caprylic Capric Triglyceride to enhance spreadability.
- Complements Stearic Acid and Cetearyl Alcohol to build thick, luxurious cream textures.
Conflicts:
- Universally compatible with most active ingredients, including retinoids and acids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated PEGylated sterols, including this specific derivative, determining them safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. Since the manufacturing process involves ethoxylation, reputable suppliers ensure the removal of trace impurities such as 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide. Clinical data suggests a high degree of biocompatibility and a lack of significant sensitization, making it suitable for patients with eczema-prone or sensitive skin.
Is PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol vegan?
Yes, the sterol portion of this ingredient is derived from the rapeseed plant (Brassica campestris). Unlike traditional cholesterol used in some cosmetics, which may be derived from animal sources, this ingredient is plant-based and suitable for vegan formulations.
Will this ingredient clog my pores?
Most dermatological assessments grant this ingredient a low comedogenic rating. Because it closely mimics the natural lipids already present in human skin, it is generally well-tolerated and unlikely to cause acne or congestion when used in standard concentrations.
Why is “PEG” in the name if it is plant-derived?
The “PEG” prefix indicates that the natural rapeseed sterol has been ethoxylated to improve its solubility and texture-enhancing properties. This process allows the ingredient to function as an emulsifier, ensuring that the oil and water components of your skincare products do not separate.