Polyacrylate-13 is a synthetic polymer that serves as a high-performance rheology modifier, emulsifier, and texture enhancer. It is primarily utilized to create “cream-gel” formulations that provide a lightweight, non-greasy skin feel while maintaining high stability.
- INCI Name:
- Polyacrylate-13
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 2-Propenoic acid, homopolymer, sodium salt (modified)
- Common Aliases:
- Sodium Polyacrylate (Related), SEPIPLUS™ 400 (Component of)
| Category: | Texture Enhancers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care, Pharmaceuticals |
| Solubility: | Water-dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects:
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits:
- Creates a smooth, elegant “satin” finish on the skin.
- Stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions without the need for heat.
- Provides excellent thickening properties across a broad pH range.
- Potential Risks:
- Low risk of sensitization; generally considered non-irritating.
- Potential for “pilling” if used at excessively high concentrations in a routine.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile:
Molecular structures of this nature function as sophisticated rheology modifiers that build a three-dimensional network within the aqueous phase of a formula. Upon contact with Aqua, the polymer chains expand and swell, effectively trapping water and suspended oil droplets. This mechanism allows the ingredient to stabilize emulsions even when low concentrations of surfactants are present, reducing the potential for skin barrier disruption.
Dermal application reveals a distinct sensory profile often described as “silky” or “weightless.” Unlike traditional waxes or heavy butters like Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, this polymer imparts viscosity without tackiness or occlusive greasiness. Its ability to suspend particles also makes it an ideal candidate for formulations containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide, ensuring an even distribution of mineral filters on the skin surface.
Technological versatility is a hallmark of this synthetic polymer. It remains stable in the presence of electrolytes and works efficiently in acidic environments, which is crucial for products containing Lactic Acid or Ascorbic Acid. By controlling the flow behavior of a product, it ensures that active ingredients are delivered in a uniform layer during application.
Broader Applications & Origins:
Synthetic manufacturing processes create this polymer through the polymerization of acrylic monomers. While it is predominantly used in high-end skincare, its role extends to hair care and sun protection products due to its film-forming capabilities. In the context of “clean beauty,” it is often scrutinized because of its synthetic origin, yet it remains a gold standard for formulators seeking to achieve specific “luxe” textures that natural gums like Xanthan Gum cannot replicate.
Routine Integration:
- Synergies:
- Emollient Blends: Often paired with Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20 to create pre-neutralized emulsifying concentrates.
- Hydrators: Works well alongside humectants like Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to enhance the “plumping” feel of a serum.
- Actives: Maintains stability in the presence of Niacinamide and various peptide complexes.
- Conflicts:
- High Salt Concentrations: While more resistant than other carbomers, extreme levels of mineral salts may eventually decrease the viscosity of the polymer network.
Clinical Consensus & Safety:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the safety of various polyacrylates and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics. Because the large molecular size of these polymers prevents them from penetrating the skin barrier, systemic toxicity is not a concern. Clinical patch testing typically shows no evidence of significant irritation or sensitization at the concentrations used in leave-on skincare products. Regulatory bodies such as CosIng list it as a permissible film-forming and viscosity-controlling agent without restrictive mandates.
Is Polyacrylate-13 a microplastic?
Current regulatory definitions vary, but this ingredient is generally classified as a liquid polymer rather than a solid plastic microbead. It is used for its rheological properties and does not fall under the global bans targeting solid exfoliating microplastics.
Can this ingredient cause acne?
Clinical data and formulation analysis indicate a comedogenic rating of 0. It is non-occlusive and does not trap sebum or debris in the pores, making it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin types.
Why does my product pill when it contains this?
Pilling usually occurs when too much of a film-forming polymer is applied, or if the product is layered over an incompatible silicone-heavy formula. Using a smaller amount or allowing the product to dry completely before applying the next step can prevent this.