Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate is a specialized oil-gelling agent and high-performance emulsifier used to structure lipid phases and stabilize anhydrous formulations. It facilitates the creation of high-viscosity balms and “oil-to-milk” cleansers that provide a smooth, cushiony skin feel without excessive greasiness.
- INCI Name:
- Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Esters of polyglycerin-10 with behenic acid and eicosanedioic acid
- Common Aliases:
- Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate Eicosadioate, Nomcort HK-P
| Category: | Texture Enhancers, Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic/Plant-derived (Vegetable-sourced fatty acids) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (Lipid phase) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Formula Stability | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Structures liquid oils into stable, clear gels or thick balms.
- Enhances the rinse-off capability of oil-based cleansers by facilitating emulsification.
- Provides a luxurious, “cushiony” skin feel and improves formula spreadability.
- Increases the thermal stability of anhydrous sticks, preventing sweating or melting.
- Potential Risks:
- Considered non-irritating and safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Functioning primarily as a physical structuring agent, this compound organizes the lipid phase of cosmetic products. Chemically, it is a complex ester formed from Glycerin-derived polyglycerol-10 and a combination of Behenic Acid (a C22 saturated fatty acid) and eicosanedioic acid (a C20 dicarboxylic acid). This specific molecular architecture allows it to create a three-dimensional network within liquid lipids, effectively increasing viscosity and creating transparent or semi-transparent oil gels without the opacity often associated with traditional waxes.
In emulsion systems, the ingredient acts as a co-emulsifier and stabilizer. By reducing the interfacial tension between the oil and water phases, it ensures a more uniform distribution of droplets. Unlike low-molecular-weight surfactants, its high molecular weight contributes to a robust film at the oil-water interface, which prevents the coalescence of droplets and enhances the long-term physical stability of the product against temperature fluctuations.
Dermal application reveals its role as an emollient that reinforces the skin’s surface. Because it is lipophilic, it remains on the stratum corneum to provide a breathable, non-occlusive film. This action helps to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while improving the sensory profile of the formula. It is often utilized to mitigate the heavy or “greasy” sensation of botanical oils or Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, replacing it with a powdery or silky after-feel.
Broader Applications & Origins
Primarily synthesized for use in high-performance skincare and color cosmetics, this ester is essential for modern “transforming” textures. It is a key component in cleansing balms that transition from a solid to an oil upon massage, and finally to a milk upon contact with water. Beyond cleansing, it is frequently employed in lipsticks and stick foundations to provide structural integrity while ensuring the product glides smoothly across the skin without dragging.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Pairs effectively with Squalane to create stable, high-clarity facial oil gels.
- Enhances the structural rigidity of formulas containing Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil or other liquid waxes.
- Works alongside Tocopherol to maintain the integrity of anhydrous, antioxidant-rich formulations.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics. Toxicological assessments indicate that these esters are non-sensitizing and do not cause significant dermal or ocular irritation, even at high concentrations. Because the molecule is large and chemically stable, it does not penetrate the skin barrier, instead remaining on the surface to perform its functional and emollient roles. No clinical evidence suggests any mutagenic or phototoxic potential.
Is Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes. This ingredient is generally considered non-comedogenic. It provides structure to oils without the heavy, pore-clogging potential of certain mineral waxes or highly occlusive butters, making it an excellent choice for structuring oil cleansers for acne-prone individuals.
Does it help with skin hydration?
While not a humectant like hyaluronic acid, it supports hydration indirectly by acting as an emollient. It forms a thin protective barrier on the skin’s surface that helps lock in existing moisture and prevents environmental dryness.