Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a high-performance, vegetable-derived emulsifier specifically designed for water-in-oil (W/O) systems. It excels at creating stable, low-viscosity emulsions that provide a light skin feel and enhanced pigment dispersion, making it a staple in mineral sunscreens and sensitive skin formulations.
- INCI Name:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Diglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate
- Common Aliases:
- PG2-DPHS, Dehymuls PGPH
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Vegetable (typically derived from castor oil and Glycerin) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Sun Care, Baby Care, Color Cosmetics |
| Solubility: | Lipophilic (Oil-soluble) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Formula Stability | |
| Skin Soothing | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Creates exceptionally stable water-in-oil emulsions with high water content.
- Provides a soft, non-greasy, and elegant skin feel compared to traditional W/O emulsifiers.
- Facilitates the even distribution of physical UV filters like Zinc Oxide.
- Functions effectively in cold-process manufacturing, preserving heat-sensitive actives.
- Potential Risks:
- Negligible risk of irritation; generally considered safe for compromised or baby skin.
- Potential for formula separation if not balanced with appropriate stabilizers like Magnesium Sulfate.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
The molecular structure of this ingredient consists of a hydrophilic diglycerin head and two lipophilic polyhydroxystearic acid chains. This amphiphilic nature allows it to sit at the interface of oil and water droplets, significantly reducing surface tension. Unlike monomeric surfactants, its polymeric nature provides steric stabilization, which prevents water droplets from merging (coalescence) in an oil base. This mechanism is vital for maintaining the integrity of lotions and creams over long shelf lives.
Dermatological compatibility remains high because the ingredient does not easily penetrate the stratum corneum. Instead, it forms a breathable, emollient film on the skin surface. This film aids in reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) without the heavy, occlusive sensation often associated with petrolatum-based water-in-oil products. Formulators value its ability to “wet” pigments, ensuring that sunscreens do not leave streaky or uneven patches of mineral filters.
Broader Applications & Origins
Primarily sourced from plant-based feedstocks, this emulsifier aligns with the growing industry demand for biodegradable and sustainable raw materials. While its most prominent use is in sun care, it is frequently found in “barrier creams” designed for diaper rash or atopic dermatitis. In these applications, the ingredient maintains a protective shield against moisture while delivering soothing agents to the skin. Its compatibility with various polar and non-polar oils, such as Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, makes it a versatile tool in a chemist’s kit.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Physical UV Blockers: Enhances the spreadability and efficacy of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.
- Electrolytes: Works optimally when paired with Magnesium Sulfate to reinforce the internal water phase stability.
- Emollients: Functions well alongside Squalane to create silky, moisturizing textures.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics. Clinical data indicates that Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at high concentrations. Because of its large molecular weight and low potential for skin penetration, it is widely recommended for use in products formulated for sensitive skin and infants. Regulatory bodies including the SCCS (Europe) recognize it as a safe cosmetic constituent with no restricted maximum concentrations in standard topical applications.
Is Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate natural?
Most versions used in the cosmetic industry are derived from vegetable sources, specifically glycerin and castor oil fatty acids. It is widely accepted in “natural” and “clean” beauty standards as a sustainable alternative to synthetic PEG-based emulsifiers.
Does it cause acne or clogged pores?
This ingredient has a very low comedogenic potential. While it is oil-soluble, its polymeric structure does not typically obstruct pores. However, as it is used in water-in-oil formulas, the overall “richness” of the final product may be more suited for dry or sensitive skin than extremely oily skin types.
Why is it in my sunscreen?
It is used in sunscreens to ensure that the UV-reflecting minerals are spread evenly across your skin. Without it, mineral sunscreens might be clumpy, difficult to apply, and less effective at protecting against UV rays.