Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is a high-viscosity, plant-derived polyester that functions as a superior emollient and film-former. It provides exceptional gloss, pigment dispersion, and long-lasting moisture retention in both color cosmetics and high-end skincare formulations.
- INCI Name:
- Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 1,2,3-Propanetriol, homopolymer, isooctadecanoate, diesters with dimer acids
- Common Aliases:
- Diglyceryl Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Vegetable-derived (typically from Isostearic Acid and Glycerin) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 (Low risk due to high molecular weight) |
| Primary Industries: | Lip Care, Color Cosmetics, Glossy Skin Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (Lipophilic) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Provides a high-gloss finish comparable to traditional silicones without the volatility.
- Exhibits excellent water-holding capacity, preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Stabilizes and uniformly disperses pigments such as Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide.
- Enhances the “cushion” and skin-feel of anhydrous (waterless) formulations.
Potential Risks:
- Minimal risk of contact sensitivity in highly reactive skin types.
- High viscosity may feel “heavy” if used at high concentrations in lightweight lotions.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
The molecular architecture of this copolymer consists of a complex polyester backbone formed through the esterification of polyglycerin-2 with Isostearic Acid and dimer dilinoleic acid. Because of its significantly high molecular weight, the ingredient does not penetrate the viable layers of the epidermis. Instead, it forms a cohesive, breathable film on the stratum corneum. This physical barrier mimics the skin’s natural lipid mantle, effectively trapping moisture within the tissue while providing a distinctive “rich” texture.
Surface activity studies indicate that this copolymer is particularly effective at wetting powder particles. In makeup formulations, it prevents the agglomeration of pigments, ensuring an even color payoff and preventing the product from settling into fine lines. Unlike lower-viscosity oils such as Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, this ingredient remains localized on the skin surface for extended periods, providing long-wear properties to lipsticks and balms.
Thermodynamic stability is a hallmark of this polymer. It resists oxidation far better than many natural vegetable oils, such as Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (castor oil), which can become rancid over time. Formulators often utilize it to replace petroleum-derived mineral oils or high-viscosity silicones to achieve a more “natural” or “clean” product profile while maintaining the performance standards of synthetic resins.
Broader Applications & Origins
Historically, achieving high-shine lip finishes required heavy reliance on polybutene or specific silicones. The development of vegetable-based dimer acid copolymers offered a sustainable alternative derived from renewable feedstock. This ingredient is now a staple in “clean beauty” lip glosses, where it serves as the primary base for achieving a glass-like finish with high refractive index properties.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Lipid-Replenishing Agents: Works effectively alongside Squalane to provide both deep emolliency and surface occlusion.
- Antioxidants: Pairs well with Tocopherol to protect the formula’s lipid phase from oxidative stress.
- Mineral UV Filters: Aids in the smooth application and suspension of Zinc Oxide in sun care products.
Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts exist; however, its high viscosity may reduce the absorption rate of water-soluble actives if applied in the same step.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Safety assessments by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and listings in the European Commission’s CosIng database categorize this copolymer as safe for cosmetic use. Due to its large molecular size, it lacks the potential for systemic absorption or significant dermal irritation. Clinical patch testing generally results in non-irritating and non-sensitizing classifications, making it suitable for sensitive lip tissue and periorbital areas.
Is Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer vegan?
Yes, this ingredient is typically derived from vegetable-sourced fatty acids and glycerin, making it a common choice for vegan-friendly and plant-based cosmetic formulations.
Why is it used in lip gloss instead of castor oil?
While castor oil provides shine, it can be prone to oxidation and has a shorter shelf life. This copolymer offers superior stability, better pigment suspension, and a longer-lasting “film” that does not migrate as easily as traditional oils.
Does this ingredient cause acne?
The copolymer is considered non-comedogenic. Its high molecular weight prevents it from entering the pore, and it does not typically contribute to the formation of comedones, though individuals with extremely oily skin should monitor rich formulations.