Polysorbate 60 is a versatile non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier that ensures oil and water components remain homogenously blended in cosmetic formulas. It provides critical stability to creams and lotions while enhancing the spreadability and texture of the final product.
- INCI Name:
- Polysorbate 60
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate
- Common Aliases:
- Tween 60, Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (derived from Sorbitol and Stearic Acid) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 1 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals, Food |
| Solubility: | Water, Ethanol, Ethyl Acetate |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Formula Stability: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Prevents phase separation by stabilizing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
- Improves the solubility of essential oils and fragrances in Aqua based systems.
- Enhances the overall “slip” and application feel of moisturizing products.
Potential Risks:
- May cause mild sensitivity in individuals with damaged skin barriers or ethoxylated ingredient allergies.
- Contains trace residues of 1,4-dioxane or ethylene oxide, though these are strictly controlled by regulatory standards.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
This ethoxylated surfactant functions by lowering the surface tension between disparate substances. Because Polysorbate 60 possesses both a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a lipophilic (oil-loving) tail, it positions itself at the interface of oil and water droplets. This orientation creates a protective film around oil droplets, preventing them from coalescing and causing the product to separate. With a Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) value of approximately 14.9, it is classified as a highly hydrophilic emulsifier, making it particularly effective for creating light, fluid lotions.
The molecular structure is anchored by a Sorbitol core that has been reacted with ethylene oxide and esterified with Stearic Acid. Unlike ionic surfactants, non-ionic variants like this do not carry a charge. This chemical neutrality ensures high compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients, including electrolytes and active substances, across a wide pH range. When used in cleansing systems, it acts as a mild co-surfactant, reducing the potential harshness of stronger detergents.
Beyond simple emulsification, this ingredient serves as an effective solubilizer for lipophilic compounds. It allows formulators to incorporate oil-soluble vitamins, such as Tocopherol, into transparent water-based serums without turning the solution opaque. Its ability to form micelles—spherical structures that trap oil—is what grants it these solubilizing properties.
Broader Applications & Origins
Commercial production involves the ethoxylation of sorbitan monostearate. While the Stearic Acid component is frequently derived from vegetable sources like palm or soy oil, the ethoxylation process is entirely synthetic. This dual nature allows for a stable, high-performance material that is used extensively beyond the skincare aisle. In the food industry, it is recognized as E435, where it stabilizes shortenings and prevents whipped toppings from collapsing. In pharmaceuticals, it assists in the delivery of hydrophobic drugs by improving their bioavailability in aqueous environments.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Cetearyl Alcohol: Often paired together to create thick, creamy textures in moisturizers.
- Glyceryl Stearate: Works in tandem to form more robust emulsion networks in heavy night creams.
- Sorbitan Stearate: A common partner for achieving long-term stability in complex sunscreens.
Conflicts:
- No known significant biochemical conflicts; it is generally compatible with all common skincare actives including acids and retinoids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has repeatedly evaluated Polysorbate 60 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical data indicates that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating at concentrations typically used in the industry, which often range from 1% to 25%. While the production process involves ethylene oxide, the SCCS and other regulatory bodies enforce strict purification limits to ensure residual contaminants like 1,4-dioxane remain at safe, trace levels (typically below 10 ppm). Dermatological studies on PubMed confirm its low potential for skin penetration, meaning it primarily performs its functional role on the skin surface or within the product matrix rather than entering the bloodstream.
Is Polysorbate 60 natural or synthetic?
While it begins with naturally derived components like Sorbitol and fatty acids, the final ingredient is considered synthetic due to the ethoxylation process required to make it water-soluble.
Does Polysorbate 60 cause acne?
With a comedogenic rating of 1, it is highly unlikely to clog pores or trigger breakouts. It is generally considered safe for use by individuals with acne-prone or oily skin.
Why is it in my fragrance-free product?
In these cases, it is likely acting as an emulsifier to keep the lotion base stable or to help dissolve other oil-soluble active ingredients into the water phase.