Saccharide Isomerate is a plant-derived carbohydrate complex that functions as a high-performance humectant. It uniquely binds to the ε-amino groups of lysine in the skin’s keratin, providing long-lasting hydration that remains effective even after rinsing.
- INCI Name:
- Saccharide Isomerate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Exopolysaccharide of plant origin (isomers of D-glucose)
- Common Aliases:
- PENTAVITIN®, Isomerized sugar complex
| Category: | Moisturizers |
| Source Origin: | Plant-based (typically derived from maize/corn) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Dermatology |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Formula Stability | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Provides deep, 72-hour hydration that resists washing off.
- Strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating essential lipids and proteins.
- Reduces skin flakiness and itching associated with xerosis.
- Improves skin smoothness and tactile softness.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low risk; generally non-irritating even for sensitive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Saccharide Isomerate mimics the natural carbohydrate fraction found in the stratum corneum. Unlike many traditional humectants that sit on the surface, this molecule creates a chemical bond with the skin’s keratin. This “moisture magnet” mechanism ensures the ingredient remains attached to the skin until it is naturally shed during the desquamation process. Dermatological research indicates that the complex stimulates the expression of key genes involved in skin barrier function, such as filaggrin and involucrin. By increasing the synthesis of Ceramide Np and other essential lipids, it proactively mitigates trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Clinical trials using 1% concentrations have demonstrated a significant reduction in skin dryness and sensitivity within two weeks of consistent application.The molecular structure allows for high compatibility with various aqueous formulations. It maintains stability across a broad pH range, typically between 3.0 and 6.0, making it an excellent addition to both acidic exfoliants and neutral creams. Formulations containing this complex often show improved sensory profiles, reducing the stickiness sometimes associated with high concentrations of Glycerin.
Broader Applications & Origins
Manufactured via the enzymatic isomerization of D-glucose from kernels of corn, this ingredient is entirely biodegradable and often ECOCERT or COSMOS approved. Its primary application remains in high-end skincare, but it is increasingly found in hair care products to treat dry scalps. Because it is bio-identical to the carbohydrates found in human skin, it exhibits a high degree of biocompatibility.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Humectants: Works exceptionally well with Sodium Hyaluronate and Glycerin to provide multi-level hydration.
- Barrier Support: Enhances the efficacy of Panthenol and Allantoin for soothing irritated skin.
- pH Adjusters: Often paired with Citric Acid or Sodium Citrate to maintain formula stability.
Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts; universally safe to pair with actives like Retinol or Ascorbic Acid.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Saccharide Isomerate and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic products. Clinical data from PubMed-indexed studies confirm that the ingredient is non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic. It is frequently recommended by dermatologists for patients with compromised barriers or those undergoing treatments with potentially drying agents like Benzoyl Peroxide or Salicylic Acid to prevent dehydration.
Is Saccharide Isomerate better than Hyaluronic Acid?
They serve different functions. While Sodium Hyaluronate holds massive amounts of water, Saccharide Isomerate bonds to the skin for longer-lasting retention and barrier repair. They are best used together.
Can I use this if I have oily skin?
Yes. It is non-comedogenic and has a lightweight, non-greasy finish, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.
Why is it called a “moisture magnet”?
This nickname refers to its unique ability to bind to the skin’s proteins, preventing it from being washed away by water or cleansers, unlike most other humectants.