A bio-engineered peptide that mirrors human Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) to stimulate cellular proliferation and repair. It functions as a powerful messenger, signaling the skin to accelerate renewal and improve the appearance of fine lines, texture, and elasticity.
- INCI Name:
- SH-Oligopeptide-1
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Synthetic Human Oligopeptide-1; Recombinant Human Epidermal Growth Factor
- Common Aliases:
- EGF, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Epidermal Growth Factor
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Biotechnology (Recombinant DNA via E. coli or barley) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Regenerative Medicine |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Skin Renewal: | |
| Anti-Aging/Renewal: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Accelerates the healing of surface-level skin damage.
- Stimulates the production of Collagen and elastin for firmer skin.
- Refines skin texture and minimizes the appearance of pores.
- Supports the epidermal barrier to prevent moisture loss.
Potential Risks:
- Possesses a high molecular weight which may limit deep penetration without advanced delivery systems.
- Requires precise formulation to maintain stability against heat and pH fluctuations.
- Theoretically controversial for individuals with active or history of skin malignancies.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Biological activity of this peptide centers on its ability to bind specifically to the Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor (EGFR) on the surface of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Once bound, it initiates a complex phosphorylation cascade that activates the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and PI3K pathways. These signals command cells to divide, migrate, and synthesize new structural proteins. By mimicking the signaling molecules naturally found in the body, it effectively “tricks” the skin into a state of high-efficiency repair and regeneration.Maintaining the integrity of this 53-amino acid chain is critical for its efficacy. Unlike simple Amino Acids, this peptide has a specific tertiary structure held together by three disulfide bridges. Exposure to extreme temperatures or highly acidic environments can denature the protein, rendering it biologically inert. Consequently, modern formulations often utilize liposomal encapsulation or cold-processing techniques to ensure the molecule reaches the receptor sites intact.
Broader Applications & Origins
Biotechnology has revolutionized the availability of this ingredient. Originally discovered by Nobel Prize-winning biochemist Stanley Cohen, EGF was initially sourced from biological tissues, which raised concerns regarding purity and ethical sourcing. The modern “sh-” prefix indicates a synthetic human sequence produced via recombinant DNA technology. This method involves inserting the human genetic code for EGF into host organisms, such as E. coli or barley, which then act as biological factories to produce a 100% bio-identical peptide without animal or human extraction.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Combining this peptide with Sodium Hyaluronate or Glycerin provides the hydration necessary for optimal cell signaling.
- Using it alongside Niacinamide and Panthenol helps reinforce the skin barrier and reduces potential sensitivity during renewal.
- Applying antioxidants like Tocopherol or Ascorbic Acid can protect the newly formed cells from oxidative stress.
- Pairing with Ferulic Acid can help stabilize the formula and enhance overall photoprotection.
Conflicts:
- Avoid simultaneous application with high-strength exfoliating acids (e.g., glycolic or lactic acid) as the low pH can denature the peptide structure.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological assessments published in PubMed-indexed journals indicate that topical application of EGF is safe and non-irritating for general cosmetic use. Studies on photoaged skin have demonstrated statistically significant improvements in skin smoothness and wrinkle depth after eight weeks of consistent use. While the CosIng database lists it as a skin-conditioning agent, the scientific consensus recognizes its role as a potent bioactive. Regulatory bodies like the SCCS have not imposed specific restrictions on its use in leave-on products, provided the peptide is high-purity and produced according to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP).
Is SH-Oligopeptide-1 the same as human growth factor?
Yes, the amino acid sequence is identical to the human version, but it is synthesized in a laboratory using biotechnology. The “sh-” prefix confirms that it is a synthetic human analogue, ensuring no human or animal tissue was used in its production.
Can I use this ingredient with Retinol?
They can be used in the same routine, but it is often recommended to apply the growth factor in the morning and Retinol at night. Retinol accelerates turnover while this peptide supports the structural repair of the new cells, creating a complementary effect.
Does it penetrate the skin barrier?
Due to its large molecular weight (approximately 6.2 kDa), it cannot easily penetrate the skin through passive diffusion. Efficacy is typically achieved through specialized delivery systems like liposomes or by applying the product to skin that has been recently treated with microneedling or professional peels.