Sh-Polypeptide-16 is a high-purity, recombinant growth factor also known as Keratinocyte Growth Factor-2 (KGF-2). It specifically targets the proliferation of keratinocytes to accelerate epidermal repair and strengthen the skin’s structural integrity.
- INCI Name:
- Sh-Polypeptide-16
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Recombinant Human Polypeptide-16 (Keratinocyte Growth Factor-2)
- Common Aliases:
- KGF-2, Fibroblast Growth Factor 10 (FGF-10), rh-Polypeptide-16
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Biotechnology (Recombinant DNA technology via microbial fermentation) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Medical Skincare, Trichology, Regenerative Cosmetics |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Anti-Aging/Renewal: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Stimulates rapid epidermal cell turnover and wound healing.
- Enhances hair follicle health and increases hair density.
- Strengthens the skin barrier against environmental stressors.
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines by promoting structural protein synthesis.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low risk of irritation; however, sensitivity may occur in rare cases of biotechnology-derived protein allergies.
- Potential for degradation if exposed to high heat or extreme pH shifts.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Sh-Polypeptide-16 operates as a mitogenic signaling molecule within the fibroblast growth factor (FGF) family. Unlike broad-spectrum peptides that target multiple cell types, this specific polypeptide binds predominantly to the FGFR2b receptor found on the surface of keratinocytes. This binding triggers a cascade of intracellular signaling that promotes the migration and proliferation of cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. By accelerating the transition of these cells toward the skin surface, the ingredient significantly reduces the time required for re-epithelialization following physical or chemical trauma.Biochemical analysis reveals that this polypeptide also plays a secondary role in hair follicle morphogenesis. It acts upon the dermal papilla to signal the start of the anagen (growth) phase, making it a frequent inclusion in scalp treatments designed to combat thinning. In traditional skincare, its role in thickening the epidermis helps to mitigate the “thinning” effect often associated with intrinsic aging, thereby improving skin resilience and decreasing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
Broader Applications & Origins
The synthesis of this ingredient involves sophisticated recombinant DNA technology. Scientists insert the human gene sequence for Keratinocyte Growth Factor-2 into a microbial host, typically E. coli, which then produces the protein through fermentation. This process ensures the resulting molecule is structurally identical to the growth factors naturally produced by the human body. Because it is highly bio-active, even microscopic concentrations are sufficient to elicit a cellular response, distinguishing it from standard structural peptides.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Enhances the hydration environment necessary for optimal cell migration.
- Panthenol: Complements the soothing and repair mechanisms of the polypeptide.
- Glycerin: Provides a stable humectant base that maintains the ingredient’s bioavailability.
- Allantoin: Works alongside the growth factor to further minimize redness during repair.
Conflicts:
- Glycolic Acid: High-concentration alpha hydroxy acids may denature the complex protein structure if applied simultaneously.
- Salicylic Acid: Low pH environments can reduce the efficacy of the peptide signaling.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological evaluations and independent clinical trials published in journals such as PubMed indicate that Sh-Polypeptide-16 is non-sensitizing and non-irritating when used at standard cosmetic concentrations (typically 1-10 ppm). While the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) has monitored growth factors closely, the localized action of KGF-2 on the epidermis prevents systemic absorption, supporting its safety profile in topical applications. It is frequently recommended for use in post-procedure regimens, including after microneedling or chemical peels, due to its proven ability to shorten recovery times without inducing inflammation.
Is Sh-Polypeptide-16 the same as EGF?
No. While both are growth factors, Sh-Polypeptide-16 (KGF-2) specifically targets keratinocytes in the epidermis and hair follicles, whereas Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) has a broader range of targets. KGF-2 is often considered superior for specialized scalp care and targeted epidermal thickening.
Can this ingredient be used daily?
Yes. It is safe for daily application and is most effective when used in leave-on products like serums or scalp essences where it has sufficient time to interact with cell receptors.
Does it help with hair loss?
Research suggests it can support hair density by stimulating the follicle cells and extending the growth phase of the hair cycle. However, it is generally used as a supportive treatment rather than a primary cure for medical conditions like androgenetic alopecia.