Sh-Polypeptide-50 is a bio-designed, vegan signal protein that replicates a specific fragment of human elastin. This recombinant polypeptide helps restore skin elasticity and firmness by mimicking the structural resilience of natural dermal fibers.
- INCI Name:
- Sh-Polypeptide-50
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Single-chain recombinant human polypeptide-50
- Common Aliases:
- Vegan Elastin, Bio-designed Elastin, Elastapure
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Biotechnology (Fermentation-derived) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmeceuticals, Anti-aging skincare |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Anti-Aging/Renewal: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Hydration: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Improves visible skin elasticity and “snap-back” capability.
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and morphological sagging.
- Supports the skin’s structural matrix via biomimicry.
- Provides a non-animal alternative to traditional collagen and elastin ingredients.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low irritation profile; suitable for sensitive skin.
- Rare potential for individual sensitivity to fermentation byproducts.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Dermal elasticity depends heavily on elastin, a protein that allows skin to return to its original shape after stretching. Traditional cosmetic elastin is often derived from bovine or porcine sources, which typically possess high molecular weights that prevent effective skin integration. Sh-Polypeptide-50 addresses this limitation through bio-design, offering a 100% match to a specific sequence of the human tropoelastin gene. This precise molecular structure facilitates better biological affinity compared to hydrolyzed animal proteins.
Topical application of this polypeptide functions primarily by signaling the skin to maintain its structural integrity. By mimicking the precursor to mature elastin, the ingredient helps reinforce the extracellular matrix. Research indicates that bio-designed polypeptides can improve the tactile smoothness of the skin while reinforcing the moisture barrier. The protein structure also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the upper layers of the stratum corneum to provide an immediate plumping effect.
Modern fermentation techniques produce this ingredient without the use of animal-derived components or harsh chemical solvents. This process ensures high purity and consistency, which is often difficult to achieve with natural extracts. Because the polypeptide is produced via controlled microbial fermentation, it lacks the inflammatory impurities sometimes found in traditional tissue-derived proteins.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Retinoids: Combining this polypeptide with retinol or retinyl-palmitate can target both collagen and elastin pathways for comprehensive remodeling.
- Humectants: Using sodium-hyaluronate or glycerin alongside this protein enhances surface hydration and plumping.
- Antioxidants: ascorbic-acid and niacinamide help protect the dermal matrix from oxidative stress that degrades elastin fibers.
Conflicts:
- None identified; this ingredient is chemically stable and compatible with most active cosmetic formulations.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Safety assessments from the Personal Care Products Council and various independent toxicological reviews categorize Sh-Polypeptide-50 as a low-hazard ingredient. Because it is a bio-identical fragment, the human body does not typically recognize it as a foreign irritant, resulting in excellent skin biocompatibility. Clinical trials focused on recombinant proteins in skincare demonstrate significant improvements in skin firmness and a measurable reduction in wrinkle depth within 28 to 56 days of consistent use. The ingredient is non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic.
Is Sh-Polypeptide-50 better than hydrolyzed elastin?
Yes, from a structural standpoint. Hydrolyzed elastin is often a random mixture of animal-derived protein fragments of varying sizes. Sh-Polypeptide-50 is a precise, bio-designed sequence that exactly matches human tropoelastin, offering superior purity and targeted efficacy.
Is this ingredient truly vegan?
Yes. Although the “Sh” stands for “synthetic human,” no human or animal tissues are used in production. The polypeptide is “grown” using microbial fermentation (usually using E. coli or yeast) that has been programmed with the human genetic code for elastin.
Can I use this with AHAs or BHAs?
Absolutely. Sh-Polypeptide-50 is stable across a functional pH range. Using it alongside chemical exfoliants like glycolic-acid or salicylic-acid can actually improve its performance by removing dead skin cells that might otherwise hinder its contact with the skin surface.