Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate is an ultra-mild, amino acid-based surfactant that cleanses the skin without disrupting the natural moisture barrier. It is particularly valued in sensitive skin formulations for its ability to produce a creamy lather while maintaining a skin-neutral pH. This ingredient provides conditioning properties that leave the skin feeling soft rather than stripped or tight.
- INCI Name:
- Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- L-Glutamic acid, N-(1-oxotetradecyl)-, monosodium salt
- Common Aliases:
- Monosodium N-myristoyl-L-glutamate, Sodium Myristoylglutamate
| Category: | Surface-Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Plant-derived (fatty acids from vegetable oils) or Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Skin Care, Hair Care, Baby Care |
| Solubility: | Water |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Soothing/Calming | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Extremely mild cleansing suitable for hyper-sensitive or reactive skin.
- Helps retain skin moisture levels during the cleansing process.
- Offers skin-conditioning effects that improve tactile smoothness.
- Supports formula stability in acidic pH ranges (pH 5-6).
Potential Risks:
- Low cleansing power compared to sulfates; may require secondary surfactants for oily skin.
- Higher cost of raw material compared to standard anionic surfactants.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
As an amino acid-based surfactant, this compound provides a distinct mechanism of action compared to traditional soaps or sulfates. The molecule is composed of a Myristic Acid fatty acid chain attached to a glutamic acid head group. Because the structure closely resembles the Amino Acids naturally found in the skin’s proteins, it exhibits a high affinity for the stratum corneum. Clinical studies suggest that acyl glutamates significantly reduce the protein denaturation and lipid elution typically associated with surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
Molecular size plays a crucial role in its mildness profile. The relatively large size of Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate prevents it from penetrating deeply into the epidermal layers, localized its action strictly to the surface for dirt and oil removal. By maintaining the integrity of the intercellular lipid matrix, the ingredient ensures that the skin barrier remains intact. It also demonstrates an “anti-stress” effect on skin cells, minimizing the release of inflammatory cytokines during washing.
Formulation performance is characterized by a dense, creamy foam rather than the large, airy bubbles produced by harsher detergents. This surfactant is often paired with Glycerin and Aqua to create “syndet” bars or gentle liquid cleansers. It remains effective even in hard water, preventing the formation of “soap scum” residues that can further irritate the skin or clog pores.
Broader Applications & Origins
Manufacturing typically involves the acylation of glutamic acid with myristic acid chloride under alkaline conditions. While it can be produced synthetically, most modern cosmetic suppliers derive the raw materials from renewable plant sources such as coconut or palm oil. Beyond facial cleansers, it is frequently utilized in luxury hair care products to provide “color-safe” cleansing and in baby products where tear-free properties are essential.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate: Enhances foaming density and overall cleansing efficiency.
- Allantoin: Boosts the soothing profile for compromised skin barriers.
- Citric Acid: Used to adjust the final pH to match the skin’s natural acidity.
Conflicts:
- This ingredient is universally safe and does not have known contraindications with active ingredients like Retinol or Ascorbic Acid.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological evaluations by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and the European CosIng database classify Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate as a safe and non-sensitizing cosmetic ingredient. Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) consistently show no evidence of cumulative irritation or sensitization at concentrations up to 5% in leave-on products and much higher in rinse-off formulations. It is considered biodegradable and environmentally friendly, aligning with “green chemistry” standards.
Is Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate a sulfate?
No, it is an amino acid-based surfactant. Unlike sulfates (such as SLS or SLES), it is derived from glutamic acid and is significantly gentler on the skin barrier and ocular mucosa.
Will it cause acne or clog pores?
It has a comedogenic rating of 0. Because it is highly water-soluble and rinses away cleanly without leaving an occlusive film, it is considered safe for acne-prone skin.
Is it vegan-friendly?
In most cosmetic applications, this ingredient is vegan as it is derived from vegetable-sourced fatty acids and fermented sugars. However, check with the specific brand to ensure no animal-derived catalysts were used during synthesis.