This synthetic tripeptide functions as a powerful skin-remodeling active by stimulating the endogenous production of hyaluronic acid and structural proteoglycans. It significantly improves skin firmness and facial contours by strengthening the dermis from within.
- INCI Name:
- Tetradecylaminobutyryl Valylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Tetradecylaminobutyryl-L-valyl-L-aminobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate
- Common Aliases:
- Syn-Hycan, HA-Booster Peptide
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (Biomimetic) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmeceuticals, Anti-Aging Skincare |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Anti-Aging/Renewal | |
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronan (glycosaminoglycans) to plump skin from the inside.
- Increases the expression of decorin and lumican to improve collagen fiber quality.
- Visibly enhances skin firmness and reduces the appearance of sagging.
- Boosts the efficacy of topical Sodium Hyaluronate formulations.
Potential Risks:
- Generally well-tolerated with no known significant side effects or sensitivities.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Dermal integrity relies heavily on the presence of hyaluronic acid (HA) and structural proteoglycans within the extracellular matrix. Tetradecylaminobutyryl Valylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate acts as a low-molecular-weight tripeptide that penetrates the upper layers of the skin to signal fibroblasts. Specifically, it targets the CD44 receptor, which is the primary cell surface anchor for hyaluronic acid, thereby triggering the internal production of new hyaluronan molecules.
Collagen organization is equally critical for skin tension and elasticity. This peptide facilitates the synthesis of decorin and lumican, two small leucine-rich proteoglycans (SLRPs) that act as “molecular bridges” between collagen fibers. By ensuring these fibers are properly spaced and bound, the peptide reinforces the structural framework of the skin, leading to a measurable “remodeling” effect on facial contours and the jawline.
The addition of the Urea moiety in the molecular structure enhances its stability and skin-mimetic properties. In clinical evaluations, the ingredient has shown the ability to increase skin suppleness and firmness in as little as four to eight weeks. Unlike some aggressive resurfacing agents, it achieves these results without disrupting the skin barrier, making it suitable for delicate areas like the neck and décolleté.
Broader Applications & Origins
Biomimetic peptides represent a significant advancement in cosmetic chemistry, moving away from simple surface moisturization toward cellular signaling. Developed through advanced peptide synthesis, this specific molecule was engineered to mimic the body’s natural signaling sequences that govern tissue repair and hydration. While many peptides focus solely on collagen synthesis, this tripeptide fills a unique niche by prioritizing the “filler” substances that occupy the space between cells.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Combines exceptionally well with Glycerin to maintain surface hydration while the peptide works on deeper levels.
- Works synergistically with Ascorbic Acid to provide the necessary co-factors for collagen stabilization.
- Pairs effectively with other signal peptides like palmitoyl-tripeptide-1 for comprehensive anti-aging results.
Conflicts:
- No known chemical conflicts with common cosmetic actives; stable at a wide pH range (3.0 to 8.0).
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Safety assessments conducted by manufacturers and independent laboratories indicate that Tetradecylaminobutyryl Valylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is non-irritating and non-sensitizing even at high concentrations. The Personal Care Products Council and various dermatological reviews support its use in leave-on products. Because it is used at very low inclusion levels (typically 2.5% of the commercial blend), the systemic exposure risk is negligible, and it currently maintains a favorable safety profile across global regulatory frameworks.
Is this peptide a replacement for hyaluronic acid fillers?
No topical ingredient can provide the immediate volume displacement of an injectable filler. However, this peptide serves as a non-invasive support system that helps maintain and boost the skin’s natural “filler” substances, potentially extending the time between clinical treatments.
How long does it take to see results?
Consistent application twice daily typically yields visible improvements in skin firmness and contour definition within 28 to 56 days, as this is the timeframe required for dermal remodeling and increased proteoglycan synthesis.