Functioning as a high-performance “pseudoceramide,” this lipid-based emollient mimics the skin’s natural intercellular lamellar structure. It excels at reinforcing the skin barrier and significantly improving moisture retention by filling the gaps between corneocytes.
- INCI Name:
- Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- L-Glutamic acid, N-(1-oxododecyl)-, ester with phytosterols and 2-octyl-1-dodecanol
- Common Aliases:
- Eldew PS-203, Amino Acid-Derived Emollient, Phytosteryl Lauroyl Glutamate
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic and Plant-derived (L-Glutamic acid and phytosterols) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Dermatological Skincare, Color Cosmetics, Hair Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Restores the lipid bilayer to prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Functions as a biomimetic agent that integrates seamlessly into damaged skin.
- Provides a non-greasy, elegant skin feel compared to traditional heavy oils.
- Stabilizes pigments and improves the spreadability of sunscreens and foundations.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low risk; generally recognized as safe for sensitive and atopic skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Chemically, the substance is an ester derived from Amino Acids (specifically glutamic acid), fatty acids, and plant sterols. Unlike simple oils that sit on the skin’s surface, this compound organizes itself into lamellar liquid crystals within the formulation and upon the skin. These structures are identical to the arrangement of natural intercellular lipids, allowing the ingredient to act as a “reservoir” for moisture while repairing physical gaps in the stratum corneum.
Molecularly, the ester behaves similarly to Cholesterol and Ceramide Np, which are essential components of a healthy skin barrier. By providing these lipid-like building blocks, it supports the skin’s structural integrity during environmental stress or after the use of harsh surfactants. It possesses a notably high water-holding capacity, often exceeding several times its own weight, which provides long-lasting hydration that persists even after the initial application has settled.
Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science and PubMed-indexed clinical studies demonstrates that nano-emulsions of this lipid significantly improve symptoms of atopic dermatitis. Specifically, regular application reduces scaling, itchiness, and dryness by enhancing the water-binding properties of the corneocyte lipid envelope. In makeup, it serves a secondary role as a pigment dispersant, ensuring even color distribution while counteracting the drying effects of powders or mineral pigments.
Broader Applications & Origins
Formulators frequently utilize this ingredient in high-performance barrier creams and “recovery” serums designed for compromised skin. Its origin is primarily associated with green chemistry, as it utilizes plant-derived phytosterols and Amino Acids rather than petroleum-based waxes. Beyond facial care, the ingredient is highly effective in hair care for repairing the cell membrane complex (CMC) of the hair shaft, which restores shine and hydrophobicity to chemically treated hair.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Ceramides (Ceramide Np, Ceramide Ap): Works in tandem to rebuild the lipid matrix.
- Humectants (Glycerin, Panthenol): Seals in the water attracted by humectants for deeper hydration.
- Lipid Solvents (Octyldodecanol, Squalane): Improves the delivery and spreadability of the emollient.
- Emulsifiers (Lecithin): Enhances the formation of stable lamellar vesicles.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological safety assessments by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel categorize phytosteryl glutamates as safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations. Clinical human repeat insult patch tests (HRIPT) involving concentrations up to 6% have consistently shown no evidence of dermal irritation or allergic sensitization. Because it is biomimetic and mimics existing human lipids, it is exceptionally well-tolerated by patients with sensitive skin or compromised barriers, such as those with eczema or rosacea.
Is this ingredient a ceramide?
While not a ceramide by chemical definition, it is considered a “pseudoceramide.” It is a biomimetic lipid that functions exactly like a ceramide by forming lamellar structures that repair the skin’s moisture barrier.
Will it cause breakouts on oily skin?
No, this emollient has a very low comedogenic potential and a lightweight, non-greasy feel. It is often preferred in formulations for oily-but-dehydrated skin because it supports the barrier without the heavy, pore-clogging nature of mineral oil or petrolatum.
Can it be used alongside retinoids?
Applying products with this ingredient is highly recommended when using Retinol or other retinoids. It helps mitigate the dryness and irritation associated with vitamin A derivatives by reinforcing the skin’s defensive lipid layer.