Derived from the fermentation of black yeast, this biotechnological extract serves as a potent film-forming agent and skin-conditioning active. It provides an immediate lifting effect while supporting the long-term integrity of the skin barrier through a rich concentration of polysaccharides.
- INCI Name:
- Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment Extract
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Extract of the product obtained by the fermentation of the micro-organism Aureobasidium pullulans
- Common Aliases:
- Black Yeast Ferment, Aureobasidium Ferment
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Biotechnological (Fungal fermentation) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Pharmaceutical |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Barrier Repair: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits:
- Creates a non-occlusive, breathable film on the skin surface to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Supports the skin microbiome by acting as a prebiotic-like substrate for beneficial flora.
- Enhances the skin’s natural resilience against environmental oxidative stress.
- Provides a temporary smoothing and tightening effect, ideal for “instant” anti-aging claims.
- Potential Risks:
- Extremely low risk of irritation; generally suitable for sensitive skin.
- May cause formula tackiness if used at very high concentrations without proper texturizers.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Fermentation of the polymorphic fungus Aureobasidium pullulans yields a complex broth rich in extracellular polymeric substances (EPS). The most notable component is Pullulan, a linear glucan polysaccharide that exhibits exceptional film-forming capabilities. Unlike synthetic polymers, these naturally derived polysaccharides adhere to the stratum corneum, forming a microscopic mesh that traps moisture without disrupting gas exchange.Dermatological research indicates that these yeast-derived ferments influence the expression of tight junction proteins. By reinforcing the cellular “cement” between keratinocytes, the extract helps maintain a cohesive physical barrier. This structural support is often accompanied by the presence of Beta Glucan, which is frequently co-produced during the black yeast fermentation process. These molecules interact with macrophage receptors in the skin to modulate inflammatory responses and accelerate minor wound healing.Biotechnological production ensures a high degree of purity and consistency compared to traditional botanical extracts. Because the fermentation parameters can be strictly controlled, the resulting extract contains a standardized profile of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that nourish the skin’s surface. The presence of these metabolites assists in neutralizing free radicals, making the extract a valuable secondary antioxidant in protective formulations.
Broader Applications & Origins
While widely utilized in high-end skincare, the primary microorganism, Aureobasidium pullulans, is ubiquitous in nature, often found on the surfaces of various plants. In the industrial sector, its ability to produce large quantities of polysaccharides has made it a staple in the production of edible films and pharmaceutical capsule coatings. Its transition into cosmetics was driven by the “K-Beauty” trend, where fermented ingredients are prized for their increased bioavailability and skin affinity.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Enhances multi-level hydration by layering film-forming moisture over deep-penetrating humectants.
- Glycerin: Improves the spreadability of the ferment extract and reduces potential tackiness.
- Panthenol: Works alongside the extract’s polysaccharides to deeply soothe and repair the skin barrier.
- Niacinamide: Complements the extract’s barrier-strengthening effects by boosting ceramide synthesis.
- Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts; compatible with most active ingredients including retinoids and acids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological assessments categorize Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment Extract as a non-sensitizing and non-irritating cosmetic ingredient. Regulatory bodies, including those aligned with CosIng and CIR standards for similar yeast-derived lysates, consider it safe for topical use in concentrations ranging from 1% to 10%. Clinical studies focusing on the polysaccharide components demonstrate that they are well-tolerated even by patients with compromised skin barriers or atopic dermatitis. As a fermentation byproduct, it is biodegradable and aligns with green chemistry standards.
Is this ingredient considered a prebiotic?
Yes, as a fermentation product rich in polysaccharides, it serves as a nutrient source for the beneficial bacteria living on the skin. This helps maintain a balanced microbiome, which is essential for preventing inflammatory conditions like acne or rosacea.
Will it make my skin feel sticky?
High concentrations of film-forming polysaccharides can sometimes leave a slight “tacky” residue. However, modern cosmetic chemistry usually pairs this extract with solvents like Butylene Glycol or Propanediol to ensure a smooth, silky finish.
Is it safe for acne-prone skin?
This extract is non-comedogenic and water-soluble, meaning it will not clog pores. Its ability to support the skin barrier can actually benefit acne-prone individuals by reducing the irritation often caused by harsh acne treatments.