A high-performance silicone elastomer that provides a sophisticated, velvet-like sensory profile and immediate optical blurring. It functions as a non-greasy thickening agent that imparts a matte finish while enhancing the spreadability of skincare and cosmetic formulations.
- INCI Name:
- Cetearyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Poly(dimethylsiloxane), vinyl-terminated, polymer with 1-octadecene
- Common Aliases:
- Silicone Elastomer Powder, Cetearyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
| Category: | Texture Enhancers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Dermatology, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Lipophilic (Dispersible in silicones and oils) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Sebum Control: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Creates a smooth, “soft-focus” finish that minimizes the appearance of pores and fine lines.
- Provides a dry, silky skin feel, eliminating the stickiness often associated with high concentrations of glycerin.
- Absorbs excess surface oils to maintain a long-lasting matte appearance.
- Improves the structural stability and viscosity of anhydrous (waterless) formulas.
Potential Risks:
- May cause “pilling” if applied over incompatible water-based serums.
- Requires thorough cleansing at night to prevent cumulative buildup of silicone films.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Silicones within this specific crosspolymer group function as three-dimensional structural modifiers. Unlike linear silicones such as dimethicone, which flow freely as liquids, this crosslinked elastomer forms a flexible network that traps liquid emollients. When applied to the skin, this network shears into micro-spherical particles. These spheres roll across the skin surface to provide exceptional “slip” and a cushioned, ball-bearing effect that transforms the tactile experience of a product.
The optical properties of this ingredient are a result of light diffusion. The irregular surface of the elastomer particles scatters light in multiple directions, rather than reflecting it directly. This “soft-focus” phenomenon effectively masks skin imperfections without the heavy, opaque coverage of traditional pigments. Furthermore, the polymer’s internal structure is naturally lipophilic, allowing it to sequester sebum produced by the sebaceous glands, which prevents the “breakthrough” shine typically seen in oily skin types throughout the day.
Formulation stability is significantly enhanced by the inclusion of this material. It acts as a thickening agent for the oil phase, preventing the migration of pigments in foundations and ensuring that sunscreens maintain an even film on the skin. By reducing the surface tension of the formula, it allows for a more uniform distribution of other active ingredients across the stratum corneum.
Broader Applications & Origins
Synthetic manufacturing of this elastomer involves the hydrosilylation of vinyl-dimethicone with a cetearyl-modified siloxane. This process yields a material that is highly compatible with organic oils and waxes, bridging the gap between traditional silicone chemistry and natural emollient bases. While most famous for its use in cosmetic “primers,” it is also utilized in high-end sun care to reduce the greasiness of chemical UV filters.
In dermatological applications, this crosspolymer is frequently used in scar management gels. It creates a breathable, semi-occlusive barrier that maintains optimal hydration levels in the tissue without the suffocating heat associated with petrolatum-based ointments. This environment supports the natural healing process and can help flatten and soften hypertrophic scars.
Routine Integration
- Synergies: Pairs exceptionally well with cyclopentasiloxane or isododecane for a weightless, quick-drying finish. It also complements porous powders like silica for enhanced oil absorption.
- Conflicts: Can exhibit poor compatibility with heavy water-gel formulations containing high concentrations of carbomer or xanthan-gum, potentially leading to product pilling or “balling up” on the skin surface.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has repeatedly assessed crosslinked alkyl siloxanes and determined they are safe for use in cosmetic products. Because these polymers possess extremely high molecular weights, they are physically too large to penetrate the skin barrier, ensuring they remain biologically inert on the surface. Extensive clinical testing has demonstrated that they are non-irritating and non-sensitizing, even for individuals with reactive or compromised skin barriers.
Is this ingredient a “breathable” silicone?
Yes. The crosslinked structure of the polymer creates a lattice-like film on the skin. This allows for the exchange of water vapor and oxygen, preventing the complete occlusion that can sometimes lead to localized irritation or “sweating” under the skincare layer.
Does it clog pores?
Despite being a silicone, it is considered non-comedogenic. Its molecular structure prevents it from sinking into the follicular opening. However, users should ensure they use an oil-based cleanser or a thorough double-cleanse to remove the silicone film at the end of the day.
Why does my product pill when I use this?
Pilling usually occurs when the silicone elastomer is applied over a water-based product that has not fully dried, or if the underlying product contains high levels of film-formers like polyvinylpyrrolidone or certain gums. Ensuring the previous layer is completely absorbed usually resolves this issue.