Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide is a high-performance, amino acid-derived gelling agent used primarily to create transparent solid oil sticks and clear emulsions. It functions by forming a robust, nano-sized fibrous network that traps liquid oils without compromising clarity or sensory appeal.
- INCI Name:
- Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- N,N-Dibutyl-L-glutamine lauryl amide
- Common Aliases:
- GP-1, L-Glutamic acid, N,N-dibutyl-, lauroyl amide
| Category: | Thickeners |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (derived from L-Glutamic Acid) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (requires heat) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Formula Stability | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Creates crystal-clear anhydrous sticks (sunscreen, lip balm, deodorant).
- Provides structural integrity to oil phases without the heavy feel of traditional waxes.
- Enhances formula stability by preventing oil syneresis (bleeding).
- Improves the spreadability and “glide” of topical products.
Potential Risks:
- Requires high processing temperatures, which may degrade heat-sensitive actives.
- Low risk of contact dermatitis in extremely sensitive individuals.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
This amino acid-based oil gellant operates through the formation of a three-dimensional supramolecular network. Unlike traditional waxes that crystallize into large, opaque structures, these molecules self-assemble into ultra-fine, transparent fibers via hydrogen bonding. These fibers create a scaffold that immobilizes liquid lipids, such as Caprylic Capric Triglyceride or Isostearic Acid, resulting in a solid gel that maintains the refractive index of the oil phase. This unique mechanism allows for the creation of “glass-like” sticks that remain aesthetically pleasing while delivering functional ingredients.
At a structural level, the dibutyl amide groups and the lauroyl chain provide the necessary balance of polarity and hydrophobicity to interact with various cosmetic solvents. When combined with Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, the resulting gel network becomes even more resilient to temperature fluctuations. This synergy is particularly valuable in formulating clear sunscreens, where the gellant must stabilize high loads of organic UV filters like Octocrylene or ethylhexyl salicylate without causing cloudiness or sedimentation.
Dermal interaction is minimal, as the ingredient functions primarily as a rheology modifier. It does not penetrate the skin barrier but rather forms a breathable, non-occlusive film on the surface. This film-forming property can indirectly support the skin’s moisture retention by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) when paired with emollients like Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil or Squalane.
Broader Applications & Origins
The development of this ingredient stems from advancements in “green chemistry,” utilizing L-glutamic acid as a precursor. While synthetic in its final form, its amino acid backbone makes it a preferred choice for formulators looking to move away from petroleum-derived waxes like microcrystalline wax or paraffin. Beyond solid sticks, it is increasingly used in “oil-to-milk” cleansers and high-end facial oils to provide a luxurious, gel-like viscosity that transforms upon contact with water or skin heat.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide: Often used in a 1:1 or 2:1 ratio to increase the melting point and clarity of sticks.
- Polar Oils: Works exceptionally well with Octyldodecanol and Isopropyl Palmitate for stable gel formation.
- Antioxidants: Formulations often include Tocopherol to protect the oil scaffold from oxidative rancidity.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetic formulations under current practices. Clinical data indicates it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating at the concentrations typically found in consumer products (ranging from 0.1% to 10%). Because it is a large molecule with low skin permeability, systemic toxicity is not a concern for topical applications. It is compliant with EU CosIng regulations and is not classified as a skin or eye irritant in standard safety assays.
Is Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide vegan?
Since it is derived from L-glutamic acid (which can be fermented from plant sources) and synthetic fatty acids, it is generally considered vegan and cruelty-free. However, consumers should check with individual brands regarding their specific sourcing.
Will this ingredient clog my pores?
No. This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 0. It is a structuring agent rather than an occlusive oil. While it is used in oil-based products, the gellant itself does not contribute to acne formation or pore blockages.
Why is my clear sunscreen stick sweating?
Sweating, or syneresis, occurs when the liquid oil phase escapes the gellant network. This is usually a sign of an imbalanced ratio between the gellant and the specific oils used, rather than a failure of the ingredient itself.