Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a mild, amino acid-based surfactant and emulsifier derived from vegetable-sourced fatty acids and glutamic acid. It excels at stabilizing cosmetic formulas while providing skin-conditioning benefits and improving the dispersion of mineral pigments in sunscreens and makeup.
- INCI Name:
- Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- L-Glutamic acid, N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-, disodium salt
- Common Aliases:
- Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (related derivative), Stearoyl Glutamic Acid Disodium Salt
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic / Plant-derived (Stearic Acid and Glutamic Acid) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Sun Care, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Water-dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Facilitates stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions for a smooth product consistency.
- Provides skin-conditioning effects, leaving a soft and silky skin feel.
- Enhances the spreadability and wear time of mineral sunscreens and foundations.
- Functions as a mild cleansing agent that respects the skin barrier.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low potential for irritation or sensitization in general populations.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
As a mild anionic surfactant and emulsifier, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate is frequently synthesized from plant-derived fatty acids and the amino acid glutamic acid. The chemical architecture allows this molecule to reduce the surface tension of water, facilitating the uniform mixing of oil and water phases in creams and lotions. Unlike traditional sulfates, which can strip the skin of its natural lipids, this amino acid derivative maintains the integrity of the stratum corneum during the cleansing or application process.
Formulation science utilizes this ingredient extensively for the surface treatment of pigments. When applied to Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, or Iron Oxides, it renders the pigment particles hydrophobic. This modification prevents pigment clumping and ensures a more homogenous UV protective film on the skin surface, which is critical for achieving labeled SPF ratings and preventing a “white cast.”
Skin compatibility remains a hallmark of this ingredient due to its biomimetic nature. Because its backbone consists of L-glutamic acid—an amino acid naturally present in the body—the skin recognizes and tolerates it exceptionally well. It acts as a “softener,” depositing a lightweight, breathable film that helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) without being occlusive or comedogenic.
Broader Applications & Origins
Beyond simple emulsification, this ingredient is prized in “clean beauty” formulations as a sustainable alternative to ethoxylated emulsifiers (like PEG-based ingredients). It is typically derived from renewable resources such as coconut or palm oil combined with fermented sugar. Its versatility extends across multiple product formats, including liquid foundations, high-SPF sunscreens, and moisturizing facial cleansers.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Works effectively alongside humectants like Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to maintain skin hydration.
- Pairs well with Stearic Acid and fatty alcohols to build viscosity and structural integrity in creams.
- Enhances the performance of physical UV filters by ensuring uniform distribution.
Conflicts:
- Universally safe with no known ingredient contraindications.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Safety profiles from regulatory bodies like the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel highlight its non-sensitizing and non-irritating nature. Clinical evaluations have shown that even at concentrations higher than those typically used in leave-on cosmetics, it does not induce significant dermatological distress. Furthermore, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and CosIng database categorize it as a safe skin-conditioning and emulsifying agent. Its biodegradable nature and low toxicity profile make it a preferred choice for formulators focusing on both consumer safety and environmental impact.
Is Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate vegan?
Yes, this ingredient is typically vegan as it is synthesized from plant-derived fatty acids and amino acids produced via fermentation, avoiding animal-derived raw materials.
Does this ingredient cause breakouts?
No, it is considered non-comedogenic. It helps create smooth textures without clogging pores, making it suitable for acne-prone or sensitive skin types.
Why is it in my mineral sunscreen?
It is used to coat the mineral particles, ensuring they spread evenly across your skin. This prevents the sunscreen from looking patchy and helps the protective filters stay in place longer.