A non-ionic emulsifier and surfactant that stabilizes oil-in-water formulations while enhancing the spreadability of creams and lotions. It functions as an emollient to improve skin texture and supports the integration of diverse lipid phases without leaving a heavy or greasy residue.
- INCI Name:
- PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyethylene glycol (5) glyceryl monostearate
- Common Aliases:
- POE (5) Glyceryl Stearate, Polyoxyethylene (5) Glyceryl Monostearate
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (produced from Stearic Acid and ethylene oxide) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 1 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care, Pharmaceuticals |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble, water-dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Ensures consistent distribution of oil-based ingredients within water-based serums and creams.
- Imparts a soft, lubricious feel to the skin without the tackiness often associated with high-molecular-weight polymers.
- Functions as a mild surfactant that assists in rinsing oil-based cleansers from the skin surface.
Potential Risks:
- May cause mild irritation in individuals with compromised skin barriers if used in high concentrations.
- Potential for trace impurities such as 1,4-dioxane, though modern cosmetic-grade processing mitigates this risk through vacuum stripping.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
This non-ionic surfactant functions by reducing the interfacial tension between traditionally immiscible phases, such as oil and water. By orienting its hydrophilic polyethylene glycol (PEG) chain toward the aqueous phase and its lipophilic Glyceryl Stearate tail toward the oil phase, the molecule facilitates the creation of stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. This specific PEG-5 variant has a relatively low Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB), making it particularly effective as a co-emulsifier to fine-tune the viscosity and stability of emulsions.
Reducing the surface tension allows topical products to spread more evenly across the stratum corneum. Because the molecule is an ethoxylated fatty acid ester, it behaves as an emollient, filling in the gaps between desquamating skin cells. This action smooths the skin’s microrelief and provides a temporary barrier that limits moisture evaporation. Unlike ionic surfactants, this ingredient is generally less disruptive to the skin’s lipid bilayer, making it a preferred choice for leave-on formulations like night creams and moisturizing lotions.
Formulators value the ingredient for its compatibility with a wide range of pH levels and electrolyte concentrations. It maintains structural integrity in formulas containing various botanical extracts or active salts where other emulsifiers might fail. In cleansing oils and balms, it acts as a “wash-off” agent, allowing the lipids in the product to emulsify upon contact with water, ensuring they can be rinsed away without leaving a film.
Broader Applications & Origins
Production typically involves the esterification of Glycerin with Stearic Acid, followed by ethoxylation. While the fatty acid component can be derived from animal tallow, most modern cosmetic manufacturers utilize vegetable-derived sources such as palm or coconut oil. Its versatility extends beyond facial skincare into hair care, where it is used in conditioners to improve combability and reduce static electricity on the hair shaft.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Works optimally when paired with high-HLB emulsifiers like Ceteareth 20 to create robust emulsion systems.
- Combines effectively with fatty alcohols such as Cetyl Alcohol or Stearyl Alcohol to build viscosity and enhance “body” in creams.
- Enhances the skin-feel of occlusion-heavy products containing Dimethicone or Petrolatum by reducing perceived greasiness.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated PEG glyceryl stearates and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. Clinical studies indicate that these ingredients are not significant sensitizers or photosensitizers. Safety assessments emphasize that manufacturers must follow strict purification protocols to ensure the absence of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane residues. Current industry standards typically limit the use concentration to under 20% in leave-on products, though most formulations utilize significantly lower amounts (1-5%) for emulsification purposes.
Is Glyceryl Stearate PEG-5 safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes, it has a low comedogenic rating and is unlikely to clog pores. However, as with any emulsifier, the overall comedogenicity of a product depends on the total formulation and the presence of other heavy oils or waxes.
Does this ingredient contain microplastics?
No, this is a chemical ester, not a solid plastic particle. While it is synthetic in nature (via ethoxylation), it does not fall under the environmental definition of microplastics used in regulatory bans.
What is the difference between this and regular Glyceryl Stearate?
The addition of the “PEG-5” chain makes the molecule more water-loving (hydrophilic) than standard Glyceryl Stearate. This allows it to disperse in water and function as an emulsifier, whereas standard glyceryl stearate is primarily an oil-soluble thickener and emollient.