A self-emulsifying emollient that functions as a primary emulsifier and texture enhancer in oil-in-water formulations. It integrates fatty acids with a small amount of soap to ensure formula stability while providing a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
- INCI Name:
- Glyceryl Stearate SE
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 2,3-dihydroxypropyl octadecanoate (mixed with sodium or potassium stearate)
- Common Aliases:
- GMS SE, Self-Emulsifying Glyceryl Monostearate
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Plant-derived (typically palm, soy, or rapeseed) or Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 2–3 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals, Food Processing |
| Solubility: | Dispersible in water; Soluble in oil |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects:
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Creates stable oil-in-water emulsions without the need for complex co-emulsifier systems.
- Softens the skin surface by filling gaps in the stratum corneum.
- Provides a creamy, pearlescent appearance to lotions and creams.
- Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by forming a lightweight breathable barrier.
Potential Risks:
- May be mildly comedogenic for individuals with highly acne-prone skin.
- Potentially destabilizes in very low pH (highly acidic) environments.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile:
Structural modifications distinguish this ingredient from its non-self-emulsifying counterpart. While standard Glyceryl Stearate is purely lipophilic and requires additional surfactants to integrate into aqueous phases, the “SE” designation indicates the inclusion of a small percentage of electrolytes or soaps. This is typically achieved by reacting Stearic Acid with Potassium Hydroxide during the manufacturing process. This internal surfactant component allows the molecule to self-disperse in Aqua, streamlining the manufacturing process for formulators.
The amphiphilic nature of the molecule facilitates a reduction in interfacial tension between water and lipid stages. By orienting its hydrophilic head toward the water phase and its lipophilic tail toward the oil phase, it creates a robust mechanical barrier around oil droplets. This orientation prevents droplet coalescence, ensuring the emulsion remains homogenous over varied temperature ranges and extended shelf-life durations. Beyond physics, the ingredient also offers sensory advantages by masking the tackiness of other ingredients.
Skin application results in an immediate emollient effect. The molecule integrates into the skin’s lipid matrix, smoothing out rough surface texture and minimizing moisture loss. Unlike heavy occlusives like Petrolatum, it provides a “dry” skin feel, making it an ideal candidate for facial moisturizers and hand creams where a greasy residue is undesirable.
Routine Integration:
Synergies:
- Fatty Alcohols: Works effectively with Cetearyl Alcohol or Cetyl Alcohol to increase viscosity and emulsion strength.
- Humectants: Pairs well with Glycerin to balance the protective barrier with deep hydration.
- Natural Lipids: Stabilizes plant-derived fats like Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Caprylic Capric Triglyceride.
Conflicts:
- Low pH Formulas: Highly acidic environments (pH below 5.0) can neutralize the soap component, leading to emulsion separation.
- High Concentration Electrolytes: Large amounts of salts may interfere with the self-emulsifying properties.
Clinical Consensus & Safety:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated this ingredient and its related salts multiple times, concluding that it is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical data indicates that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at high concentrations. Because it is metabolized into Glycerin and Stearic Acid—both of which occur naturally in the human body—it exhibits high biocompatibility and a low toxicological profile.
Is Glyceryl Stearate SE vegan?
While the ingredient can be derived from animal fats, most modern cosmetic suppliers use vegetable sources such as palm, soy, or rapeseed oil. Consumers should verify with specific brands if their source is certified vegan.
Will this ingredient cause breakouts?
It has a comedogenic rating of approximately 2 to 3. For most people, this is considered low risk; however, those with very oily or extremely acne-prone skin may want to patch test products containing high concentrations of this ingredient.
What is the difference between Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE?
The standard version is a simple ester that requires a separate emulsifier to mix oil and water. The “SE” (Self-Emulsifying) version contains a small amount of soap, which allows it to act as an all-in-one emulsifier and emollient.