Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract is a potent botanical active recognized for its superior skin-soothing and depigmenting properties. It functions as a natural alternative to hydroquinone by inhibiting melanin synthesis and mitigating pro-inflammatory cytokines.
- INCI Name:
- Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fischer root extract
- Common Aliases:
- Chinese Licorice Root, Gan Zao, Ural Licorice.
| Category: | Active Substances, Antioxidants |
| Source Origin: | Plant-derived (Root of Glycyrrhiza uralensis) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmeceuticals, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), Pharmaceuticals. |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble (aqueous/hydro-glycolic extracts) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Brightening/Tone: | |
| Soothing/Calming: | |
| Antioxidant Efficacy: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Inhibits tyrosinase activity to fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
- Provides powerful anti-inflammatory effects comparable to low-dose hydrocortisone.
- Neutralizes free radicals through high flavonoid content.
- Reduces skin redness and sensitivity associated with rosacea or acne.
Potential Risks:
- Generally considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing for all skin types.
- Rare potential for botanical cross-reactivity in highly sensitive individuals.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Dermatological efficacy of this extract stems from its complex biochemical makeup, primarily liquiritin, isoliquiritin, and glycyrrhizin. Liquiritin functions as a skin-lightening agent by dispersing melanin and stimulating its degradation, rather than merely inhibiting its production. This mechanism offers a safer pathway for treating melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) compared to aggressive bleaching agents. Unlike its relative Glycyrrhiza glabra, the Uralensis variety is particularly rich in licochalcone A, a chalcone that regulates the skin’s oil production and exhibits strong antimicrobial properties against C. acnes.
Cellular studies demonstrate that the extract suppresses the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS). By blocking these pro-inflammatory pathways, the extract effectively interrupts the cascade that leads to erythema and swelling. Furthermore, its antioxidant capacity assists in protecting dermal fibroblasts from oxidative stress induced by UVB radiation, thereby preventing premature photoaging and structural degradation of the extracellular matrix.
Broader Applications & Origins
Endemic to northern China, Mongolia, and Siberia, this perennial legume has been a staple in Oriental medicine for centuries. While the pharmaceutical industry utilizes its glycyrrhizic acid for treating gastric ulcers and viral hepatitis, the cosmetic industry focuses on purified fractions for topical repair. The extraction process typically involves maceration of the dried roots in a solvent like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol to preserve the delicate flavonoids and chalcones from thermal degradation.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Brightening: Pairs exceptionally well with Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, and Tranexamic Acid for multi-pathway pigment control.
- Soothing: Enhances the calming effects of Panthenol, Allantoin, and Alpha Bisabolol.
- Acne Care: Complements Azelaic Acid by reducing the redness of active breakouts.
Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts exist with common cosmetic actives.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated Glycyrrhiza-derived ingredients multiple times, concluding they are safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations typically ranging from 0.0001% to 1% of the isolated compounds. Clinical trials published in PubMed highlight its role in reducing the severity of atopic dermatitis and improving skin radiance without the cytotoxic effects associated with other depigmenting agents. It is widely regarded as a non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic ingredient suitable for long-term daily application.
Is this the same as the licorice used in candy?
While the botanical source is the same species, the extract used in skincare is highly purified to concentrate specific flavonoids like liquiritin. Unlike food-grade licorice, cosmetic Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract is formulated to maximize topical bioavailability and minimize the systemic absorption of glycyrrhizin.
Does it help with active acne or just the marks?
It assists with both. The licochalcone A in the extract provides antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits that help calm active acne lesions, while liquiritin works simultaneously to prevent the “dark spots” (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) that often remain after a breakout heals.
How does it differ from Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate?
The root extract contains the full spectrum of the plant’s phytochemicals, including various flavonoids and chalcones. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a specific salt derived from one component (glycyrrhizic acid) primarily used for intense soothing and anti-irritant purposes rather than skin brightening.