Hydroxyethyl Urea is a powerful synthetic humectant that provides long-lasting hydration comparable to glycerin without the associated tackiness. This urea derivative effectively increases skin elasticity and supports the skin’s barrier function by drawing moisture into the stratum corneum.
- INCI Name:
- Hydroxyethyl Urea
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 2-Hydroxyethylurea
- Common Aliases:
- N-(2-hydroxyethyl) Urea, Hydrovance
| Category: | Moisturizers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care, Pharmaceuticals |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Provides deep, non-sticky hydration that persists even after rinsing.
- Improves skin elasticity and overall suppleness.
- Enhances the sensory profile of formulations by reducing the greasiness of oils.
- Supports the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) within the skin.
Potential Risks:
- Extremely low irritation risk, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
- Potential for slight stinging if applied to severely compromised skin barriers.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Water-binding properties define this ingredient’s efficacy. Unlike its parent molecule, urea, which can have keratolytic (exfoliating) effects at higher concentrations, this modified version focuses primarily on hydro-regulation. The molecule contains hydroxyl groups that form strong hydrogen bonds with water molecules, effectively trapping moisture within the upper layers of the skin. Scientific evaluations indicate that it can hold up to 82% of its weight in water at high relative humidity.Structural differences between this derivative and traditional humectants like Glycerin result in vastly different tactile experiences. While many humectants leave a heavy or tacky film, this molecule provides a “weightless” finish. Because it penetrates the stratum corneum efficiently, it aids in maintaining the liquid-crystalline phase of the intercellular lipids, which is crucial for a healthy skin barrier.
Broader Applications & Origins
Formulators frequently utilize this agent to replace or supplement Glycerin when a more elegant skin feel is desired. Beyond simple moisturization, it acts as a mild penetration enhancer for other actives. Its synthetic origin ensures high purity and batch-to-batch consistency, avoiding the variability found in some botanical extracts.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Pairs exceptionally well with Hyaluronic Acid to provide moisture at different depths of the skin.
- Works in tandem with Sodium Pca to mimic the skin’s natural moisturizing factor.
- Complements Panthenol for enhanced soothing and barrier repair.
Conflicts:
- No known significant ingredient conflicts.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated Hydroxyethyl Urea in 2012 and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics in the current practices of use and concentration. Clinical studies demonstrate that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on products. SCCS data supports its use as a stable, safe alternative to traditional humectants with a low risk of systemic toxicity.
Is Hydroxyethyl Urea the same as Urea?
No. While derived from urea, this version is modified with a hydroxyethyl group. This change removes the strong exfoliating properties of urea and focuses entirely on hydration and improved sensory aesthetics.
Can this ingredient cause skin irritation?
Dermatological assessments show that it is incredibly well-tolerated. It is significantly less likely to cause the “stinging” sensation sometimes associated with high concentrations of pure urea or certain Lactic Acid formulations.
Is it safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes. With a comedogenic rating of 0, it does not clog pores. Its ability to hydrate without adding oil makes it an ideal choice for oily but dehydrated skin types.