Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate functions as a high-performance, amino-acid-based emollient and solvent. It is primarily utilized to improve the solubility of organic UV filters and enhance the sensory profile of oil-heavy formulations by providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish.
- INCI Name:
- Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Isopropyl 2-(N-methyldodecanamido)acetate
- Common Aliases:
- Eldew SL-205, Isopropyl N-Lauroylsarcosinate
| Category: | Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic / Plant-derived (Lauroyl Sarcosine) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Skin Care, Sun Care, Color Cosmetics |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Penetration Enhancement: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
Primary Benefits:
- Excellent solvent capacity for crystalline UV filters, preventing recrystallization.
- Provides a silky, dry skin feel comparable to volatile silicones.
- Improves the spreadability of pigments and active substances.
- Offers high oxidative stability, extending the shelf life of lipid-based products.
Potential Risks:
- Minimal risk of mild irritation in individuals with hyper-reactive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Amino acid derivatives like Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate serve as multifunctional esters in modern cosmetics. This specific molecule bridges the gap between traditional oils and synthetic silicons by offering a high-refractive-index shine without the associated tackiness of heavier lipids. Its branched structure allows for rapid spreading across the stratum corneum, creating an occlusive but breathable film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL).Solvent capabilities define its utility in sun care products. Manufacturers frequently employ this ester to dissolve crystalline UV filters such as Avobenzone, ensuring they remain stable and effective throughout the product’s shelf life. By lowering the required concentration of greasier oils needed to solubilize actives, it allows for the creation of “dry touch” sunscreens that consumers find more aesthetically pleasing.Structural integration into the lipid bilayer of the skin is facilitated by its sarcosine-based head group. This compatibility assists in the delivery of oil-soluble vitamins and antioxidants deep into the epidermis. Unlike Isopropyl Myristate, which can sometimes be more comedogenic, this sarcosinate ester maintains a low comedogenic profile, making it suitable for acne-prone skin types.
Broader Applications & Origins
The synthesis of this ingredient involves the esterification of Isopropyl Alcohol with Lauroyl Sarcosine, an amino acid derivative. While it is technically synthetic, the lauric acid component is frequently derived from coconut or palm oil. Beyond facial skincare, the ingredient is found in hair care formulations to provide shine and manageability without the buildup associated with heavy dimethicones.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- UV Filters: Enhances the photostability and dissolution of Avobenzone, Octocrylene, and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
- Pigments: Aids in the uniform dispersion of Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide in foundations.
- Lipophilic Actives: Assists in the delivery of Retinol and Tocopherol.
Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts; universally compatible with standard cosmetic ingredients.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated the safety of amino acid alkyl amides, concluding that Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate is safe under current practices of use and concentration. Dermatological assessments indicate a low potential for dermal irritation or sensitization even in sensitive skin cohorts. Because it is highly stable against oxidation and hydrolysis, it does not typically degrade into irritating byproducts within a formulation.
Is Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate a silicone?
No, it is an amino-acid-based ester. While it provides a “silicone-like” silky feel and dry finish, it does not contain silicon atoms and is often used as a biodegradable alternative to volatile siloxanes in clean beauty formulations.
Does it cause acne or clogged pores?
Current data and manufacturer specifications suggest a very low comedogenic potential (rated 0 to 1). Its lightweight nature and high spreadability prevent the “heavy” feeling that typically leads to follicular congestion.
Why is it found in so many sunscreens?
It is one of the most efficient solvents for solid organic sun filters. By ensuring these filters stay dissolved, it prevents the sunscreen from becoming “gritty” and ensures the UV protection is evenly distributed across the skin.