PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is a high-performance, non-ionic thickener and surfactant used primarily in liquid cleansers to increase viscosity and reduce the irritation potential of harsher detergents. Derived from a combination of corn-derived Glucose and fatty acids, it provides a distinctive “slip” and luxury skin feel without compromising foam quality.
- INCI Name:
- PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyethylene glycol (120) methyl glucose dioleate
- Common Aliases:
- Glucamate DOE-120, Polyoxyethylene (120) Methyl Glucose Dioleate
| Category: | Thickeners |
| Source Origin: | Vegetable (Glucose/Rapeseed) and Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Skin Care, Hair Care, Baby Care |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Soothing/Calming | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Significantly increases the viscosity of Aqua-based surfactant systems.
- Reduces the ocular and dermal irritation of anionic surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate.
- Improves the sensory profile of cleansers by providing a smooth, lubricious feel.
- Maintains formula clarity in transparent liquid soaps and shampoos.
- Potential Risks:
- Potential for trace 1,4-dioxane contamination, though strictly regulated and minimized during modern manufacturing.
- May slightly suppress flash foam volume in specific surfactant blends.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
As an associative thickener, this molecule functions by forming a network of physical cross-links with surfactant micelles. Unlike simple salts, which thicken by shielding charges and promoting micelle growth, this large polymer bridges multiple micelles, creating a robust rheological structure. This mechanism allows formulators to achieve high viscosity even in formulas with very low surfactant concentrations.The chemical structure consists of a methyl Glucose core esterified with oleic acid and ethoxylated with approximately 120 moles of ethylene oxide. Because it is a large, high-molecular-weight polymer, it cannot penetrate the stratum corneum. This physical limitation ensures it remains on the skin’s surface during the cleansing process, where it acts as a buffer between the skin and more aggressive cleansing agents.Dermatological benefits extend beyond simple texture adjustment. Research published by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) suggests that the inclusion of this ingredient in surfactant systems can lower the overall irritation score of the final product. By interfering with the way surfactants interact with skin proteins and lipids, it helps preserve the integrity of the skin barrier during washing.
Broader Applications & Origins
Manufacturers often utilize this ingredient in “tear-free” baby shampoos due to its exceptionally low irritation profile. It is widely compatible with various surfactant types, including non-ionic, anionic, and amphoteric systems like Coco Betaine. Beyond cleansing, its ability to provide “slip” makes it a valuable additive in shaving gels and luxury body washes.The raw material is typically supplied as a waxy solid or a concentrated liquid blend. While the PEG portion is synthetic, the methyl glucose and dioleate fractions are often derived from renewable botanical sources such as corn and rapeseed oil. This hybrid nature makes it a staple in contemporary “clean beauty” formulations that require high-performance rheology without using carbomers or inorganic salts.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Works optimally with Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate to create creamy, mild facial cleansers.
- Pairs effectively with humectants like Glycerin to enhance the post-wash skin feel.
- Often used alongside Citric Acid, as it remains stable across a broad pH range (5.0 to 9.0).
- Conflicts:
- No known biochemical conflicts; however, excessive concentrations may lead to a “stringy” texture in some formulations.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate multiple times, most recently reaffirming its safety for use in both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products. Clinical data shows it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating at standard usage levels, which typically range from 0.5% to 5.0%. Toxicology studies confirm that the high molecular weight of the polymer precludes systemic absorption through intact skin. While ethylene oxide derivatives carry historical concerns regarding 1,4-dioxane, current vacuum stripping processes ensure these impurities are well below safety thresholds established by global regulatory bodies like the SCCS.
Is PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate safe for sensitive skin?
Yes. It is specifically used in formulations to make them gentler. By reducing the irritation potential of surfactants, it helps prevent the redness and dryness often associated with deep-cleansing products.
Is this ingredient considered natural?
It is classified as semi-synthetic. While its core is derived from natural Glucose and vegetable oils, the ethoxylation process (the “PEG” part) is synthetic.
Does it cause acne or clogged pores?
No. With a comedogenic rating of 0, this ingredient is a large polymer that does not enter the pores or trigger sebum-related congestion.