PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a high-performance, polymeric emulsifier primarily used to stabilize water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. It allows for the creation of elegant, lightweight creams and lotions with high water content that remain stable under extreme temperature fluctuations.
- INCI Name:
- PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyethylene glycol (30) dipolyhydroxystearate
- Common Aliases:
- Polyxyethylene (30) dipolyhydroxystearate
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (derived from 12-hydroxystearic acid and ethylene oxide) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Pharmaceutical |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Formula Stability | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Exceptional stabilization of water-in-oil emulsions, preventing phase separation.
- Facilitates a lightweight, non-greasy skin feel despite high oil or pigment content.
- Improves the spreadability of sunscreens containing high levels of Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide.
- Functions effectively across a wide temperature range, enhancing product shelf life.
Potential Risks:
- Minimal risk of irritation, though rarely associated with sensitivities to PEG compounds.
- May contain trace impurities like 1,4-dioxane, though strictly regulated in cosmetic grades.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Modern formulations utilize PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate as a non-ionic, polymeric surfactant with an “ABA” block copolymer structure. The central hydrophilic polyethylene glycol (PEG) chain is anchored by two lipophilic polyhydroxystearate chains. This configuration allows the molecule to wrap around water droplets within an oil continuous phase, creating a robust steric barrier. Unlike traditional low-molecular-weight emulsifiers that rely on electrostatic forces, this polymeric structure provides superior resistance to droplet coalescence even when high concentrations of electrolytes like Magnesium Sulfate are present.The amphiphilic nature of this ingredient enables formulators to incorporate high percentages of Aqua (up to 80%) into oil-based systems without sacrificing stability. It is particularly effective at “wetting” inorganic pigments and UV filters, ensuring they are evenly distributed throughout the formula. This results in a more uniform film upon application, which is critical for the efficacy of physical sunscreens and the coverage of liquid foundations. Because it does not penetrate the skin barrier deeply, it provides these functional benefits with a high degree of dermatological safety.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Magnesium Sulfate: Frequently used in tandem to enhance the osmotic stability of the water phase in W/O emulsions.
- Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide: Aids in the uniform dispersion of these physical UV filters for better sun protection.
- Glycerin: Works well within the internal water phase to maintain skin hydration without disrupting the emulsion.
- Mineral Oil or Caprylic Capric Triglyceride: Serves as an excellent carrier oil for the external phase when stabilized by this emulsifier.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate within the group of PEG Stearates and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. Clinical data indicates a very low potential for sensitization or skin irritation at typical use concentrations (usually between 0.5% and 5%). While the manufacturing process involving ethylene oxide can produce 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct, industry standards require purification steps to ensure these levels remain well below safety thresholds set by regulatory bodies like the SCCS. It is non-comedogenic and suitable for use in products designed for sensitive or compromised skin.
Is PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes, this ingredient is considered non-comedogenic. Because it is a large polymer, it does not easily penetrate pores or contribute to the formation of comedones, making it safe for those with oily or acne-prone skin types.
Why is this ingredient used in sunscreens?
It is essential for stabilizing water-in-oil sunscreens, which are naturally more water-resistant than oil-in-water systems. It ensures that UV-reflecting minerals are spread evenly across the skin, preventing “patchy” protection and improving the aesthetic feel of the product.
Is it considered a “natural” ingredient?
It is a synthetic polymer. While its polyhydroxystearate components can be derived from plant-based castor oil (12-hydroxystearic acid), the polyethylene glycol portion and the final chemical structure are the result of laboratory synthesis.