Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate is a high-performance, plant-derived emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent known for creating stable oil-in-water structures. It is particularly valued for its ability to form lamellar liquid crystalline phases that mimic the skin’s natural lipid bilayer, enhancing barrier repair and ingredient delivery.
- INCI Name:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Hexaglyceryl monobehenate; 1,2,3-Propanetriol, homopolymer, monooctacosanoate
- Common Aliases:
- Hexaglyceryl Behenate, Polyglycerol-6 Behenate
| Category: | Emulsifiers |
| Source Origin: | Plant-derived (typically from Glycerin and rapeseed oil) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble (dispersible in water at high temperatures) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Formula Stability | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits: Stabilizes complex emulsions, enhances skin softness, mimics natural skin lipids, and provides a non-greasy finish.
- Potential Risks: Minimal; generally recognized as safe for all skin types including sensitive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Complex molecular architecture allows this ingredient to function as a versatile O/W (oil-in-water) emulsifier. By combining a hydrophilic polyglycerol-6 backbone with a long-chain Behenic Acid (C22), it effectively bridges the gap between aqueous and lipid phases. The result is a highly stable emulsion that resists phase separation even under fluctuating temperatures.Lamellar phase formation is perhaps the most significant functional trait of this ester. Research into liquid crystalline structures indicates that surfactants with C22 fatty acid chains can organize into multi-layered “sheets” within a cream. These structures closely resemble the intercellular lipid matrix of the human stratum corneum. When applied topically, they integrate with the skin’s surface to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reinforce the protective barrier.Tactile properties are significantly improved when this material is utilized in high-viscosity formulations. Unlike shorter-chain fatty acid esters, the behenate moiety imparts a sophisticated, powdery after-feel rather than an oily residue. It is frequently employed to balance the heaviness of vegetable oils like Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil or Caprylic/capric Triglyceride.
Broader Applications & Origins
Manufacturers derive this compound through the esterification of vegetable-sourced polyglycerin and fatty acids. Its sustainability profile is high, as it is biodegradable and often PEG-free, making it a preferred choice for “clean beauty” standards. Beyond basic moisturizers, it is commonly found in sunscreens where it helps disperse physical filters like Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide uniformly across the skin.
Routine Integration
- Synergies: Works exceptionally well with Behenyl Alcohol and Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate to create robust “green” emulsification systems. It also stabilizes formulas containing high concentrations of Glycerin or Panthenol.
- Conflicts: No known biological conflicts; however, stability may be compromised in extremely low pH environments (below pH 4.0) if not properly buffered.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics. Dermatological assessments show a very low incidence of sensitization or irritation, largely because the ingredient breaks down into biocompatible components (Glycerin and fatty acids) upon metabolic processing. It is considered non-comedogenic and suitable for acne-prone skin due to its specific fatty acid profile.
Is Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate natural?
Yes, it is typically synthesized from plant-based sources like rapeseed oil and vegetable glycerin. It is widely accepted in ECOCERT and COSMOS-certified organic formulations.
Does it cause breakouts?
This ingredient has a very low comedogenic potential. Because behenic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid, it is less likely to clog pores compared to smaller molecules or certain synthetic waxes.
What is the difference between this and PEG emulsifiers?
Unlike PEG (polyethylene glycol) emulsifiers, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate is produced without ethylene oxide. This makes it a popular alternative for formulators seeking to avoid 1,4-dioxane contamination risks.