This plant-derived ester functions as a high-performance, water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent. It is particularly valued for its ability to stabilize mineral sunscreens and color cosmetics while providing a smooth, non-greasy application.
- INCI Name:
- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 12-hydroxy-octadecanoic acid, homopolymer, ester with hexaglycerol
- Common Aliases:
- Hexaglyceryl Polyhydroxystearate
| Category: | Emulsifiers, Softeners |
| Source Origin: | Vegetable (typically derived from castor oil and Glycerin) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0-1 |
| Primary Industries: | Skincare, Sun Care, Makeup |
| Solubility: | Oil-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Formula Stability | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Creates stable, fluid emulsions without heavy or sticky residues.
- Enhances the dispersion of mineral pigments and UV filters.
- Softens the skin by acting as an emollient and film-former.
- Supports water-resistant properties in topical formulations.
Potential Risks:
- Negligible risk of irritation; generally considered safe for sensitive skin.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Formulators often utilize this ingredient as a primary emulsifier for water-in-oil (W/O) systems due to its low Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) value. It functions by reducing the interfacial tension between water and oil phases, creating a robust structural network that prevents phase separation. Because it is an ester of Glycerin and polyhydroxystearic acid, it exhibits significant amphiphilic properties, allowing it to coat pigments effectively.
Chemically, the structure enables it to provide a “dry” emollience, which distinguishes it from heavier vegetable oils. It forms a breathable, flexible film on the stratum corneum, which helps to mitigate trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) without the occlusive weight of petrolatum. This characteristic makes it a preferred choice for “clean beauty” formulations where a silicone-like skin feel is desired using plant-based alternatives.
Beyond its emulsifying capabilities, the ingredient plays a critical role in pigment wetting. In makeup and sunscreens, it ensures that particles like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are evenly distributed throughout the product. This prevents clumping or “streaking” upon application, directly improving the SPF efficacy and the aesthetic uniformity of foundations or concealers.
Broader Applications & Origins
Most commercial supplies are synthesized through the esterification of vegetable-derived fatty acids. The polyhydroxystearic acid component is typically derived from Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, while the polyglycerol-6 comes from plant-based Glycerin. This origin supports its use in vegan and natural-certified products.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Mineral UV Filters: Works optimally with Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide to enhance dispersion.
- Humectants: Pairs effectively with Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to lock in moisture.
- Plant Oils: Enhances the spreadability of Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and other botanical lipids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated polyglyceryl esters and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetic products at current practice concentrations. Clinical patch testing indicates that Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate is non-sensitizing and non-irritating to the skin and eyes. Because it is a large polymer, it does not penetrate deep into the viable epidermis, further reducing the risk of systemic absorption or adverse reactions. It is widely recognized as a sustainable and safe alternative to PEG-based (polyethylene glycol) emulsifiers.
Is Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes. This ingredient has a very low comedogenic potential and is used to create lightweight emulsions that do not clog pores, making it suitable for oily or acne-prone skin types.
Is this ingredient vegan?
In most cosmetic applications, it is derived from vegetable oils like castor oil and plant-based Glycerin, making it compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyle standards.
Why is it used in sunscreens?
It acts as a dispersing agent that prevents mineral powders from clumping together. This ensures the sunscreen provides a uniform protective layer on the skin, which is essential for reaching the labeled SPF rating.