Polysorbate 80 is a versatile nonionic surfactant and emulsifier that facilitates the blending of oil and water in cosmetic formulations. It is particularly valued for its ability to solubilize essential oils and fragrances into aqueous bases, ensuring product clarity and stability.
- INCI Name:
- Polysorbate 80
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate
- Common Aliases:
- Tween 80, POE (20) sorbitan monooleate
| Category: | Surface-Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic (derived from Sorbitol and Oleic Acid) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Pharmaceutical, Food |
| Solubility: | Water, Ethanol; Insoluble in Mineral Oil |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects:
| Formula Stability | |
| Texture Enhancement | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Prevents phase separation in oil-in-water emulsions.
- Solubilizes lipophilic ingredients like fragrances into water-based serums.
- Improves the rinse-off capability of oil cleansers and balms.
- Potential Risks:
- May cause mild stinging if used in very high concentrations near the eyes.
- Potential for sensitivity in individuals with damaged skin barriers.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile:
This ingredient functions as a high-HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) emulsifier, typically possessing a value around 15. By reducing the interfacial tension between immiscible liquids, it allows oil droplets to remain suspended in an aqueous continuous phase. The polyoxyethylene chains extend into the water, creating a steric barrier that prevents droplets from coalescing, which is vital for the shelf-life of lotions and creams.Beyond simple emulsification, this substance acts as an effective solubilizer. Many active components, such as vitamins or botanical extracts, are hydrophobic and would naturally cloud a water-based formula. Incorporating this surfactant enables these lipids to form transparent micellar solutions. This property is frequently exploited in the production of micellar waters and light-weight hydrating mists.Dermatological applications also benefit from its role as a mild cleanser. Because the molecule contains both a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail, it can surround sebum and debris on the skin surface. Once encapsulated, these impurities are easily rinsed away with water, making it a staple in “wash-off” oil cleansers.
Broader Applications & Origins:
While heavily utilized in skincare, this compound is ubiquitous in the pharmaceutical and food industries. It serves as a stabilizer in vaccines and as an emulsifier in ice cream to prevent milk proteins from completely coating the fat droplets, aiding in texture retention. Chemically, it is produced by the ethoxylation of sorbitan esterified with Oleic Acid.
Routine Integration:
- Synergies:
- Works optimally alongside low-HLB co-emulsifiers like Sorbitan Oleate or Sorbitan Stearate to create robust emulsions.
- Commonly paired with fatty alcohols such as Cetearyl Alcohol to increase the viscosity and “body” of creams.
Clinical Consensus & Safety:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the polysorbate group multiple times, concluding that Polysorbate 80 is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical data suggests it is non-mutagenic and generally non-irritating at standard usage levels (typically under 5% in leave-on products). While rare, contact dermatitis has been documented in hypersensitive individuals, but the ingredient is widely considered a low-risk, biocompatible standard in the global cosmetic industry.
Is Polysorbate 80 natural?
It is a synthetic ingredient, though it is derived from naturally occurring precursors like Sorbitol and plant-based fatty acids. It is not considered “natural” by strict ECOCERT standards due to the ethoxylation process.
Does it cause acne?
With a comedogenic rating of 0, this ingredient is highly unlikely to clog pores or trigger breakouts. It is often used in “oil-free” labeled products to help disperse beneficial lipids without the use of heavy waxes.
Why is it in my watery serum?
In aqueous serums, it is likely acting as a solubilizer for a fragrance or an oil-soluble active like Tocopheryl Acetate, ensuring the product remains clear rather than milky.