Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate is a bio-fermented botanical extract that enhances skin brightness and hydration. It utilizes yeast fermentation to break down the nutrients of Job’s Tears seeds into smaller, highly bioavailable molecules for superior skin penetration.
- INCI Name:
- Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Ferment Filtrate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Ferment filtrate of Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seeds by the microorganism Saccharomyces
- Common Aliases:
- Job’s Tears Ferment, Coix Seed Ferment Filtrate, Adlay Ferment
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Botanical/Biotechnological |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetic, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Brightening/Tone | |
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Antioxidant Protection | |
| Irritation Risk |
- Primary Benefits:
- Inhibits melanin synthesis to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
- Provides essential Amino Acids that reinforce the skin’s natural moisture barrier.
- Neutralizes free radicals to protect against environmental oxidative stress.
- Improves skin texture by promoting a smoother, more refined surface.
- Potential Risks:
- Extremely low risk of irritation, though rare sensitivities to fermented byproducts can occur.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Fermentation by Saccharomyces yeast transforms the complex polysaccharides and proteins of the Coix seed into low-molecular-weight metabolites. This biotechnological process increases the concentration of bioavailable Amino Acids, such as Alanine and Leucine, which are critical components of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). By replenishing these molecules, the filtrate ensures the stratum corneum remains hydrated and resilient.Clinical research into Coix seed derivatives suggests a potent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. By modulating melanin production, this ferment filtrate effectively addresses post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sunspots. Unlike aggressive chemical exfoliants, it achieves a brightening effect through biological pathways rather than physical or chemical shedding of the skin cells.Anti-inflammatory properties further distinguish this ingredient. It suppresses certain pro-inflammatory cytokines, making it suitable for calming reactive or stressed skin. The presence of phenolic compounds and coixol provides robust protection against lipid peroxidation, ensuring that cellular structures remain intact when exposed to UV radiation or pollution.
Broader Applications & Origins
Job’s Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi) has a documented history in East Asian traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and detoxifying properties. In modern cosmetic science, the “ma-yuen” variety is specifically cultivated for its high nutrient density. The use of Saccharomyces—a genus of fungi that includes brewer’s yeast—allows chemists to extract these nutrients without the use of harsh chemical solvents, aligning with “green chemistry” standards.This ingredient is frequently utilized in “first essences” and watery toners. Its ability to act as a penetration enhancer allows subsequent steps in a skincare routine to work more effectively. Because it is lightweight and non-greasy, it serves as a primary active in formulations targeting oily and combination skin types that require hydration without heaviness.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Niacinamide: Enhances the brightening effect and further strengthens the skin barrier.
- Ascorbic Acid: Provides a double-layered antioxidant defense and accelerates the fading of dark spots.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Works alongside the ferment’s amino acids to lock in deep hydration.
- Panthenol: Synergistically calms redness and repairs compromised skin.
- Conflicts:
- No known major contraindications; compatible with most active ingredients including retinoids and acids.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and CosIng database recognize fermented botanical filtrates as safe for topical application in concentrations typically ranging from 1% to 100% (as a base). Dermatological assessments indicate it is non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic. While it contains yeast byproducts, it does not typically exacerbate fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis), as the filtration process removes the live cultures, leaving only the nutrient-rich supernatant.
Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, it is considered highly tolerable. Its natural anti-inflammatory properties often help to soothe irritation rather than cause it.
How does it differ from regular Coix seed extract?
The fermentation process breaks down the seed’s molecules into smaller sizes. This allows for deeper penetration and a higher concentration of bioactive nutrients compared to standard aqueous extracts.
Can it be used daily?
This ingredient is safe for twice-daily use. It does not increase sun sensitivity and can be used in both morning and evening routines.