Sclerotium gum is a versatile, biotechnologically derived polysaccharide that functions primarily as a thickening, stabilizing, and skin-conditioning agent. It is prized in cosmetic chemistry for its ability to create stable, non-greasy gels and to enhance the sensory profile of liquid formulations.
- INCI Name:
- Sclerotium Gum
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- Beta-1,3-glucan with beta-1,6-glycosidic branches
- Common Aliases:
- Scleroglucan, Amigel, Sclerotium rolfsii gum
| Category: | Thickeners |
| Source Origin: | Microbial Fermentation (Sclerotium rolfsii) |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble (Hot and Cold) |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits:
- Exceptional thermal and electrolyte stability in aqueous solutions.
- Provides a silky, non-tacky skin feel compared to other gums.
- Functions as a natural film-former to reduce trans-epidermal water loss.
- Efficiently suspends insoluble particles like pigments or physical UV filters.
- Potential Risks:
- Negligible risk of irritation or sensitization.
- Formulation-specific pilling if used at excessively high concentrations.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
This polysaccharide is a high-molecular-weight polymer consisting of a glucose backbone. Its secondary structure forms a rigid triple helix, which provides significant resistance to enzymatic degradation and high temperatures. In cosmetic applications, this structure allows for the creation of “pseudoplastic” fluids; the product thins under the shear of application (spreading on skin) but immediately recovers its viscosity once the force is removed.As a shear-thinning rheology modifier, the ingredient excels at stabilizing emulsions without the heavy, waxy feel of traditional lipids. It exhibits high compatibility with high-salt environments, making it superior to synthetic polymers like Carbomer when formulating with electrolytes or botanical extracts. Beyond its structural role, the gum acts as a humectant. It forms a permeable film on the stratum corneum that traps moisture, similar to the action of Sodium Hyaluronate, though with a more significant impact on formula viscosity.Unlike many natural thickeners such as Xanthan Gum, this ingredient offers a distinct “skin-smoothing” effect. It mitigates the stickiness often associated with high concentrations of Glycerin or glycols. Because it is non-ionic, it remains stable across a wide pH range, typically between 3.0 and 12.0, allowing for use in everything from acidic chemical exfoliants to alkaline depilatory creams.
Broader Applications & Origins
The industrial production of this gum involves the aerobic fermentation of the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii on a sugar-based medium. This microbial origin ensures a highly reproducible molecular weight and purity profile, which is often difficult to achieve with plant-derived gums. While primary use is found in high-end skincare serums and lightweight lotions, it is also utilized in hair care to provide “slip” and in pharmaceutical topical gels as a drug delivery vehicle.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Hydrophilic Actives: Enhances the delivery and feel of Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Betaine.
- Polymeric Blends: Works synergistically with Xanthan Gum to create more robust, crystal-clear gels.
- Sunscreen Agents: Improves the suspension of inorganic filters like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for even coverage.
- Conflicts:
- No major chemical incompatibilities have been identified; it is generally considered universally safe for all skin types and ingredient combinations.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological assessments and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel have concluded that sclerotium gum is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Clinical studies indicate that it is non-sensitizing and non-irritating even at concentrations higher than those typically found in consumer products (usually 0.5% to 2.0%). Its non-comedogenic nature makes it an ideal thickening agent for oil-free or acne-prone skin formulations. Because it is a large molecule that does not penetrate the skin barrier, systemic toxicity is not a concern.
Is sclerotium gum a natural ingredient?
Yes, it is considered a natural-origin ingredient. It is produced through a bio-fermentation process of the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii, making it a sustainable alternative to synthetic rheology modifiers.
How does it differ from xanthan gum?
While both are fermentation-derived polysaccharides, sclerotium gum is typically more stable in the presence of salts and provides a much smoother, less “stringy” or “tacky” skin feel. It is often used to improve the sensory elegance of a product.
Will it cause skin pilling?
In well-formulated products, it should not pill. However, because it is a film-forming polysaccharide, using very high concentrations in multiple layers of a skincare routine (e.g., a serum, moisturizer, and primer all containing high gum content) may lead to surface pilling.