A targeted tripeptide designed to stimulate the skin’s endogenous production of hyaluronic acid and essential proteoglycans. It functions as a remodeling agent that enhances structural integrity, resulting in improved skin firmness and more defined facial contours.
- INCI Name:
- Tetradecyl Aminobutyrylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- N-Tetradecyl-D-aminobutyryl-L-valyl-D-aminobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate
- Common Aliases:
- Syn-Hycan, Hyaluronan booster peptide
| Category: | Active Substances |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Dermatological Skincare, Anti-Aging |
| Solubility: | Water-soluble |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Anti-Aging/Renewal | |
| Hydration/Moisture | |
| Barrier Repair | |
| Irritation Risk |
Primary Benefits:
- Stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid) from within the dermis.
- Increases the expression of decorin and lumican, two proteoglycans essential for Collagen fiber quality.
- Improves skin viscoelasticity and tonicity.
- Enhances the “scaffolding” effect of the skin to reduce sagging.
Potential Risks:
- Generally considered non-irritating; however, as a high-potency peptide, individual sensitivity is possible.
- Minimal data exists on systemic absorption, though topical molecular size suggests localized action.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Cellular architecture relies heavily on the presence of glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans to maintain volume and elasticity. As skin ages, the natural concentration of hyaluronic acid diminishes, leading to a loss of structural support. This specific tripeptide acts as a biological signal to fibroblasts, triggering the upregulation of hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2). Unlike topical hyaluronic acid, which primarily provides surface hydration, this mechanism encourages the skin to generate its own moisture-retaining molecules deep within the extracellular matrix.
Fibroblasts also require specific proteoglycans to ensure that Collagen fibers are correctly assembled and spaced. Decorin and lumican are small leucine-rich proteoglycans (SLRPs) that act as “glue” and organizers for collagen fibrils. By increasing the levels of these proteins, the peptide ensures that the dermal framework is tightly bound and resilient. This process is frequently referred to in cosmetic chemistry as “remodeling,” as it addresses the mechanical properties of the skin rather than just surface texture.
Molecular design plays a crucial role in the efficacy of this ingredient. The tetradecyl chain attached to the peptide sequence increases its lipophilicity, which aids in its ability to penetrate the upper layers of the stratum corneum to reach the viable epidermis and dermis. While it is technically a Urea derivative in its chemical structure, its function is entirely distinct from the moisturizing or keratolytic properties typically associated with standard Urea.
Broader Applications & Origins
Synthetic manufacturing allows for a high degree of purity and stability in this peptide, ensuring it remains active in a variety of cosmetic vehicles. It is commonly found in specialized serums targeting the “V-shape” of the face, neck creams, and intensive eye treatments. Because it is often supplied in a base of Glycerin and water, it integrates seamlessly into aqueous formulations.
Routine Integration
Synergies:
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1: Works alongside to boost the total production of the dermal matrix.
- Arginine: Supports the metabolic environment required for peptide signaling.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Provides immediate surface plumping while the peptide works on long-term internal synthesis.
- Glycerin: Enhances the humectant capacity of the formulation.
Conflicts:
- No known chemical incompatibilities have been documented; it is stable across a wide pH range (typically 3.0 to 6.5).
Clinical Consensus & Safety
Dermatological assessments conducted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and independent clinical studies confirm that Tetradecyl Aminobutyrylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is safe for topical use in concentrations typically ranging from 1% to 3% (in its commercial solution form). Clinical trials have demonstrated a statistically significant increase in skin firmness and a visible reduction in the appearance of sagging after 28 to 56 days of consistent application. It is classified as a non-sensitizer and does not exhibit phototoxicity, making it suitable for both morning and evening regimens.
Does this ingredient replace the need for injectable fillers?
No topical peptide can match the immediate volume restoration of medical-grade fillers. However, it serves as a non-invasive complementary treatment that supports the skin’s natural density and can help prolong the results of professional procedures by maintaining a healthy dermal matrix.
How long does it take to see results?
Biological remodeling of the skin is a gradual process. While some users may notice improved hydration within days due to the formulation’s humectants, the visible firming and contouring effects typically require 4 to 8 weeks of daily use, coinciding with the skin’s natural turnover and protein synthesis cycles.