A multifunctional synthetic polymer that serves as a high-performance thickening agent, emulsifier, and texture enhancer. It is prized for creating “gel-cream” textures that feel lightweight and provide an immediate cooling sensation upon application.
- INCI Name:
- Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
- Chemical/Scientific Name:
- 2-Propenoic acid, sodium salt, polymer with 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, sodium salt
- Common Aliases:
- Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, ATBS Copolymer
| Category: | Stabilizers |
| Source Origin: | Synthetic |
| Comedogenic Rating: | 0 |
| Primary Industries: | Cosmetics, Dermatology, Personal Care |
| Solubility: | Water-dispersible |
At a Glance: Properties & Effects
| Texture Enhancement: | |
| Formula Stability: | |
| Hydration/Moisture: | |
| Irritation Risk: |
- Primary Benefits:
- Creates elegant, non-greasy textures with a “vanishing” feel.
- Stabilizes complex emulsions, preventing phase separation.
- Functions effectively across a wide pH range (typically 4.0 to 12.0).
- Enables the creation of cold-process emulsions, saving energy during manufacturing.
- Potential Risks:
- Potential for “pilling” if used at excessively high concentrations or layered with incompatible polymers.
- Limited electrolyte resistance; high salt concentrations can cause the gel structure to collapse.
Biological Action & Cosmetic Profile
Modern cosmetic chemistry relies on rheology modifiers to dictate the sensory experience of a product. This specific copolymer is a pre-neutralized synthetic polymer that swells instantly in Aqua to form a micro-gel network. By trapping water and oil droplets within this three-dimensional matrix, it provides stability to emulsions without the need for traditional, heavy waxes or high-HLB surfactants. The resulting “gel-cream” or “water-drop” texture is highly sought after in skincare for its ability to break quickly upon contact with the skin, releasing moisture and active ingredients.
Molecular weight plays a crucial role in its efficacy and safety. Because the polymer chains are exceptionally large, they cannot penetrate the skin barrier. Instead, they remain on the surface, forming a breathable, non-occlusive film. This film helps to smooth the skin’s microrelief and can provide a slight tightening effect as the water evaporates. Unlike Carbomer, which requires a neutralizing agent like Sodium Hydroxide or Triethanolamine to thicken, this copolymer is ready to use and remains stable in the presence of acidic actives.
Manufacturers frequently utilize this ingredient in “pre-dispersed” blends. These commercial mixtures often include Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 to enhance ease of handling. In these formats, the copolymer can emulsify significant amounts of oil—up to 40% in some cases—while maintaining a liquid-like, refreshing consistency that is ideal for oily or acne-prone skin types.
Broader Applications & Origins
Synthesis of this copolymer involves the radical polymerization of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate. This petrochemical origin ensures high purity and batch-to-batch consistency, which is vital for pharmaceutical-grade topical applications. Beyond facial skincare, it is extensively used in sunscreens to ensure even distribution of UV filters and in hair care to provide “slip” without the heaviness of certain silicones.
Routine Integration
- Synergies:
- Humectants: Pairs exceptionally well with Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to boost the “water-burst” sensation.
- Silicones: Works with Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane to create silky, primer-like finishes.
- Active Ingredients: Highly compatible with Niacinamide and various stable vitamin C derivatives.
- Conflicts:
- Electrolytes/Salts: Ingredients like Magnesium Sulfate or high concentrations of Sodium Pca can thin the formula.
- Cationic Ingredients: May conflict with certain quaternary ammonium compounds (polyquaterniums) depending on the specific charge density.
Clinical Consensus & Safety
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the safety of acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics. Because of their large molecular size, they lack systemic toxicity and do not pose a risk of sensitization or irritation at standard formulation levels (typically 0.5% to 3%). Clinical patch testing consistently demonstrates that the copolymer is non-irritating even to sensitive skin. Regulatory bodies such as CosIng (European Commission) list no specific restrictions on its use in leave-on or rinse-off products.
Is this ingredient a microplastic?
While it is a synthetic polymer, it is typically classified as a liquid or dissolved polymer rather than a solid plastic microbead. Current European REACH regulations focus on solid particulate microplastics that persist in the environment. However, as it is synthetic and non-biodegradable, it is subject to ongoing environmental scrutiny.
Will it cause my skincare to pill?
Pilling usually occurs if the product contains a high concentration of polymers that do not absorb into the skin. If you experience pilling, try using a smaller amount of the product or ensuring that the previous layer of skincare is completely dry before application.
Is it safe for acne-prone skin?
Yes. With a comedogenic rating of 0, this ingredient does not clog pores. It is a preferred thickener for “oil-free” formulations because it provides the body and “creaminess” of a lotion without using pore-clogging oils or butters.